Finally returned to La Rosiere in mid-March 2023 as part of a whirlwind French Alps ski safari of 10 resorts from Megève all the way to Valfréjus and everything in between. In what could best be described as a redemption tour, I was a little wary about what I would find at La Rosiere. Our previous visits were not in the best of circumstances but turns out this one was. New (ish) lifts opening up fantastic terrain, a deep Spring snowpack, sunny weather, softened snow on the southerly aspects, powder on the shaded steep northerly aspects, great hospitality and its usual remarkably good value lift pass. What more could one wish for?
Started and finished the visit well in the Les Eucherts sector of the La Rosiere village, parking my rental car right opposite the chairlift in time for first lifts. I adore ski-in ski-out parking.
The newer lifts in the Mont Valaisan sector are a game changer here. A short hike up from the top of the lift at 2,800m, one can drop into the backside of the mountain, slide the steeps from the summit, or head off on a voyage of discovery into Italy, coming out in the La Thuile lifted sector of Espace San Bernardo. It is exactly what La Rosiere needed – a little spice in the sauce so to speak. I did a couple of wonderful variations from the top with both ending up crossing some massive avalanche debris before the Chardonnet chair to return back into France proper. Clearly the ‘hors-piste’ accessed from the top of the Valaisan chair needs to be treated with respect.
The long beginner & intermediate pistes in the resort were as popular as ever with the masses, and so they should be. Whilst the resort has a whopping ‘on paper’ skiable vertical of 1,630m, it could never be skied in full. With the newer zone up to 2,800m, it is possible for intermediates to ski nearly 1,300m in one run all the way down to the bottom of the Petit Bois triple chair at 1,500m. The lower portion of the run (Marmottes) has snowmaking on its shaded sector guaranteeing its skiability. Previously one could do a maximum of 1,140m, but that was down from the 2,330m Roc Noir to the rarely open Ecudets at a very low 1,190m.
I checked out a few mountain restaurants and it seems new bars & cafes have sprouted along the slopes since our last visit. Makes toilets breaks for those in need a little easier than previous. All the mountain spots looks the goods, but in the end, the pièce de resistance was delivered at the unassuming Ledemé Boulangerie/Patisserie with its combo of a heavenly Mille Feuille and flavoursome baguette. Located in the Les Eucherts village commercial buildings, it was unbeatable for taste and value. Whenever you want a good, simple lunch in France, find the local bakery. Probably true of anywhere really!
As I booked to stay in the region at the last minute, decent affordable lodgings in the resort were not available. So I stayed in the valley at the wonderful in Viclaire at the Auberge Le Perce Neige d'Alicia. I recommend it if exploring the Haute Tarentaise in a rental car and seeking convivial, affordable room & board. But if you can, stay in the village. Rule of thumb is there are some fabulous ski-in ski-out hotels in the Les Eucherts part of the village, and there are loads more apartments in the main La Rosiere village. I’ve found that many of the apartments can only be booked for a minimum of 7nights from Saturday to Saturday. So if you are in the area on a Saturday, skiing here should be very quiet. I skied here just before the weekend, so saw it at its most hectic, which wasn’t very hectic at all.
The drive up in the morning for first lifts reminded me why some people do not drive in the French Alps. The road is a little challenging in parts and GPSs do get a tad confused, spewing out instructions to take turns that are questionable at best, dangerous at worst. Be wary not to be sucked into short cuts that are little more than goat tracks. Local signs warn drivers about this, so it is clearly a known problem. Thankfully I was a wake up to it early and avoided any missteps. Turn it off and follow the signs.
La Rosiere delivered on this visit and fully redeemed itself in my mind. The snow, terrain, lifts, food, convenience, views, price all stack up. I now want to go back on a full-on powder day. You should too. And if you are a family of intermediate of better skiers that want a fun, affordable ski resort, the combination of La Rosiere & La Thuile is well worth consideration.
Read more about the pros & cons of this ski resort on the La Rosiere overview page.