We knew it was going to be a good day when at 8.15am on the morning of a BIG powder day, we were the only car in the carpark. But who could imagine how good it was going to be? Imagine riding a six-seater chair that serves 800m of alpine vertical all to oneself for an hour on the morning of a 40cm plus powder day? Go on, just imagine it. That's what happened to us at Nauders in February 2022. Hard to believe, but it is true, and it wasn't because we got exclusive access or any such nonsense. We just timed it right and had the knowledge and skill to ski the off-piste terrain in poor visibility. That lift, the Tscheyeck chair, formed the basis for one of the most stunningly memorable ski days of my powder privileged career.

I'd done a ski reconnaissance of the hill a few days previous on a fine sunny day, so were happy to hit the off-piste with confidence after the predicted storm rolled in. Best recon trip I've ever done!

Away from the off-piste terrain (of which we barely scratched the surface), there are numerous fantastic, long, rolling, intermediate piste trails streaming down from top to bottom. The novice & beginner lifts and facilities from the mid-mountain Bergkastel station are first rate. There are a few very steep advanced trails which will get one turning (notably pistes 6 & 25), but otherwise the on-piste is accessible to everyone that has the 'ski legs' for long descents. Most of the ski terrain is above 1,900m elevation, so it is snow sure.

On-mountain restaurants a few in number (about 5), but high in quality. The Stieralm was the pick of them before the lunchtime rush.

Nauders has it all as far as ski villages go but can book out quickly. A castle, shops (including an extensive MPreis supermarket (always handy especially with a Baguette Café), good bars, broad accommodation selection plus easy bus links to the ski areas and so on. At the end of the ski day, the village return trail has the rare treat of skiing past the castle. Not too many places one can do that on the way home. In town, the Yeti Bar is best after-hours action.

Booking at the last minute, we stayed 20min drive down the valley in a fantastic apartment in the village of Pfunds but have previously visited the region from the Italian side of the pass, staying at Borgeis and the amazing walled town of Glurns (Glorenza).having a rental car here is worthwhile to visit all the sights and various ski areas in both countries.

Nauders can appear quite crowded on sunny days when viewed from the densely packed day car park but looks are deceiving. Most visitors appear to be late starting (mid-morning) family groups, plugging away at the piste trails even when there is a ton of powder lying about. As a result, this is a powderhounds paradise of the highest order.