Zurich (Zürich)
Zurich is the gateway to skiing an immense portion of the Alps and if one can ignore (or at least ameliorate) the expense is a pleasant, even vibrant city for an overnight stay.
As Switzerland's largest city (by a long way!) and a global financial powerhouse, it is no surprise that Zurich's airport (ZRH) has fabulous flight connections from across the world. Once in country, the magnificent Swiss train system can then whisk you away to all points in the Alps without even leaving the airport terminal. We love that!
We must admit to being a little surprised by how delightful a stay in Zürich can be. And whilst we will forever contend that staying in the mountains should be the prime objective when in Switzerland (skiing being more importanterer than rubber-necking), a sneaky night in Zurich will only add to your list of why you love this gorgeous country.
Pros & Cons for Zürich
Pros
- A lovely, safe city, with an ‘old town’ perfect for long walks exploring the riversides & lake shore.
- Zurich’s airport & main train station are the best gateways in Europe for intercontinental travellers to visit Switzerland, western Austria, and central northern Italy.
- The local public transport & regional connections are the world’s finest.
- All of the Swiss Alps ski resorts (plus those in western Austria) can be accessed directly from ZRH airport (or Zurich main station) by train and bus.
- The ‘old town’ is charming with historic buildings, bridges & other sights.
- Exceptionally high-quality restaurants.
- Loads of excellent accommodation in the centre of the city, close to the train station.
- Surprisingly vibrant after dark, particularly near the Limmat River in the Old Town’s Niederdorf & Oberdorf precinct.
- Day trips from the city can include to Lucerne, Rhine Falls, Pilatus
Cons
- There is no skiing in the city & all resorts are just far enough away that Zürich isn’t quite convenient as a base to explore them, so you will have to move further out into mountains!
- One of the most expensive cities in the world to live, so budget accordingly.
Pro or Con (depending on your perspective!)
- Snow only falls rarely in Zurich now compared to the ‘good old days’, so keep your winter cityscape expectations low.
- If splashing cash on high-end fashion and accessories is your thing, Zurich definitely has you covered along Bahnhofstrasse. If this is not your thing, one can easily avoid it as well!
- Nightlife is better than expected, but you are in Switzerland so what exactly did you expect?
- If chasing a car rental, renting from a depot in the city centre is cheaper than from the ‘premium’ location that is the airport. It does mean you have to drive out of the city, but such is life!
Skiing & Snowboarding near Zürich
Zurich’s location might not put it next door to any ski resorts but throw a 3hr travel blanket around the city & one can access more world-class ski resorts than you could ski in a lifetime, let alone a few weeks or a season. And many are accessible by train too, which in our view is the classiest way to go skiing.
Whilst most would not consider Zurich as gateway to skiing in Austria, it is worth remembering that St Anton (& Ski Arlberg) is less than 2½hr travel by regional express train from Zurich HB (central station).
For Swiss resorts, from the Zurich city centre by train the likes of Engelberg ski resort is under 2hr travel time, Andermatt is 2hr, Interlaken (& hence the Jungfrau Ski Region) is under 2hr. Further along, Davos is less than 2½hr (Klosters even less), Arosa is under 3hr, Aletsch Arena is 3hr and that includes a cable car ride up to the top from the train station. St Moritz is 3½hr and getting all the way to Zermatt is similar. Combined with a bus ride the possibilities expand even more. Our lesser-known favourites like Lauchernalp are just 3 to 3½hr travel with the bus ride included. Do you get the idea?
Whilst it is possible to do day-trips to places like Engelberg ski resort by train from Zurich, most other ski areas are just a little too far away or convoluted, so pack up & move deeper into the mountains to get to them.
Things to Do in Zurich
Any European city with a history going back as far as Zurich’s is bound to have the usual diversity of historic buildings, bridges, grossly over-decorated churches, and museums. And it does. It is missing a decent castle though. Shame that.
Check out the Zurich City Map below.
Spend some time strolling along both sides of the river Limmat from Platzspitzwehr in the north, past the Swiss National Museum (Landesmuseum Zürich)(worth a visit later if this kind of thing interests you!) then via the cobbled lanes of the Schipfe quarter. Take a short diversion with a few steps up to the Lindendorf ‘hill’ for fine views over the Limmat. Continue wandering along all the way to the shores of Lake Zürich and the final bridge called Quaibrücke. From Quaibrücke looking back down river is ‘the shot’! head back along the opposite side noting the town hall & other historic buildings. The nightlife district along Niederdorfstrasse is on this side of the river, one street to the east, and is a worth a look after dark.
Did you know that Europe’s largest church clock face is in Zurich. Look up at the steeple of St Peterskirche (St Peter’s Church) and be amazed. Then move on ….. lots to see!
Opposite the train station near the Hotel Schweizerhof, Bahnhofstrasse winds its way through the old town. Shopaholics will cream their thermals at the high-end shopping opportunities here. Once you tire of guffawing over the ridiculous price of fashion & jewellery on Bahnhofstrasse, find you way onto Augustinergasse; one of the most picture-perfect streets in the city. The brightly coloured, centuries old buildings lining the street will cheer you up on even the most gloomy winter days.
For a bit of traditional ‘beer hall’ action, it is hard to go past the Zeughauskeller on In Gassen lane. Fine brews, a lively atmosphere and the best kind of delectable Swiss ‘pub’ food imaginable. And of course it is all in a 15th century building.
Chocoholics will have their minds blown with a tour of the Lindt Home of Chocolate in Kilchberg, a suburb of Zurich. Situated along the western shore of Lake Zürich, it is 500m walk from the Kilchberg train station (the S8 line) or you can take a bus (routes 161/165).
When visiting Zurich any time from late November to Christmas Eve, check out one of Europe’s best traditions, the local Christmas Markets. The best ‘old town’ markets are along the Niederdorfstrasse, but there are several others including a huge indoor one in the entrance hall of Zurich’s main train station.
If like us you love castles, sadly most of the good ones within an easy day trip of Zurich are closed during winter. As an alternative, we suggest a walk up & along the old town wall above nearby Lucerne (Luzern) to sate your understandable thirst for medieval fortifications.
Near Zurich
Within an hour of Zurich there are a host of things to see and do. Whilst many may be closed or operate on limited hours during winter, there are some outstanding non-skiing day trips, particularly to Rhine Falls & Lucerne. Check out the Zurich Region Tourist Map below.
Further away from the city, but just one hour by train, is the spectacular Rhine Falls (Rheinfall), Europe’s biggest plains waterfall by volume. Flanked by castles it is certainly a sight to behold. For the best view of the falls, take the S9 train (direction Schaffhausen) from Zurich HB to ‘Neuhausen Rheinfall’ station and step out onto the river. An alternative way is on the S12 line (also direction Schaffhausen) to ‘Schloss Laufen am Rheinfall’ station. This gets you on the other side of the river. A railway bridge with pedestrian access crosses the river just above the falls.
Just 50 minutes by train from Zurich, the charming city of Lucerne (Luzern) should be on everyone’s ‘must visit’ list. The city’s classic sights include the two covered bridges Kapellbrücke (Chapel Bridge) & Spreuerbrücke (Spreuer Bridge) plus the Wounded Lion monument, but these provide only a small part of the city’s overall interest. The old town and surrounding hilltop castle towers, walls & fortifications are awesome for strolling. They are packed with history, views, cafes & bars along the way. In winter there are Arts & Light Festivals adding to the cities many entertainment options. In February, the Lucerne Carnival is an incredible experience, with a zanily costumed procession of drum bands being the standout. For fine beer & fare, try the charismatic Bistro Krienbrüggli.
Overlooking Lucerne, the looming peak of Pilatus provides spectacular views and a wonderful overnight experience if staying in one of the mountaintop hotels (like Hotel Pilatus-Kulm). To get there, go from Zurich Hbf to Lucerne main train station, then take the route 1 bus for a 12-minute ride to ‘Kriens, Zentrum Pilatus’ stop. From there a 10-minute walk up a slight hill will get you to the gondola valley station. The 30-minute gondola ride (a tad slow, but it is a scenic ride!) to Fräkmüntegg (1,416m) combines with a final 5-minute cable car to get you up the mountain to Pilatus Kulm, at around 2,132m altitude. Thats over 1,600m above the surrounding lakes so it has great sense of verticality. There are winter walks, viewpoints, and even a sledding (schlitteln or sledging!) trail that descends 400m vertical in the mid-mountain sector from Fräkmüntegg.
Where is Zurich Switzerland?
The city of Zürich is in northeastern Switzerland on the northern shore of Lake Zürich and split by the river Limmat (which drains the lake). The city is in the canton of the same name, Zurich! The airport & city are centrally located on the north side of the Alps to provide the best access point for a host of what we regard as the world’s best ski resorts.
Zurich is the best entry point for intercontinental travellers to access the best ski resorts in the Alps, particularly in Switzerland & western Austria. Its flight, train & highway connectivity is second to none. Shame it is Switzerland because it costs so much. But then again it is so good because it is in Switzerland! Perfection does come at a price.
Getting There - Zurich Airport (ZRH)
Zurich (ZRH) airport is served by flight origins from all over the globe. It is just 12km (20min) by road north of the city centre in the district of Kloten. The road distance is usually of no use to most visitors because the local trains leaving from inside the terminal do the distance quicker & with less hassle right into the heart of the city in just under 12 minutes. Buses and trams also make the journey into Zurich from the airport, but they are of little use to tourists.
Search & book train tickets to/from Zürich.
Despite the world’s best public transit system literally at your feet, some may feel it is preferable to take a private transfer to reach the city & surrounding ski resorts. If travelling with the great unwashed insults your sensibilities (even in first class on the train!), search & book all private transfers to/from Zürich.
Once in the city, we recommend walking to make the most of all the sights. A comprehensive network of local buses & trams can also be utilised. See here for the local Zurich Transport Network Map.
Getting Away
For skiers & snowboarders heading out into mountains of Switzerland, the trains travelling from Zurich airport or Zurich HB (HB or Hbf means main station) directly to places like Geneva, Brig & Chur provide the best kind of ski transport to the ski resorts of the Valais, Graubünden & Bernese Oberland. Similarly, any train travelling from Zurich toward Innsbruck stops at places like St Anton, Landeck Zams, Imst in Pitztal, and Oetztal Bahnhof, opening up ski possibilities of a gargantuan proportions.
If wanting a little more flexibility, car rentals are easy to get at the airport or in the city centre. The airport is considered a ‘premium’ location and incurs an additional fee for the privilege of using it. As it not consistently required by law throughout Switzerland (unlike Austria & Bavaria in Germany), ensure your car is equipped with winter tyres at a minimum.
Zurich Accommodation
Central Zurich
Zurich has a delightful location on the shores of Lake Zürich and the river Limmat. For a night or two whilst transiting through or returning from skiing, the centre of the city near the river and main train station is the place to stay. There are plenty of hotels to choose from to suit all budgets & tastes, however most are certainly edging toward the upper end of the price scale - such is life in Zurich.
Search & book here for all Zürich Accommodation.
Next to and within a few hundred metres walk of the train station, there are some lovely accommodation options ranging from affordable (but still very nice) to the outrageous pricey (but still very nice!). In the affordable & convenient category we can recommend the Fred Guest house. Ask for a larger top storey room.
Perhaps the best value in central Zurich can be found just across the Limmat, where lovers of Campari will naturally be drawn to the Hotel Limmathof (there is a huge Campari sign on top of the hotel). Hotel Limmathof has the best value rooms within walking distance of the Zurich train station, and near all the best sights, bars & restaurants, this hotel ticks a lot of boxes whilst not costing an arm or a leg, let alone both.
Just 150m from the main entry to the Zurich train station, Ruby Mimi Hotel is a classy and comparatively affordable place to stay. With stylish rooms, wonderful service & a truly fabulous bar, a night here will add to your enjoyment of the city.
Hotel Schweizerhof perhaps provides the most perfect overnight stay in Zürich. At the start of the famous Bahnhofstrasse shopping precinct, the Schweizerhof has fabulous 5-star luxury just across from the train station & within strolling distance of all the city sights. So if you have the money, spend it here.
Also close to the train station, Townhouse Boutique Hotel is just 200m away & provides spacious rooms with old world charm.
Well situated with commanding views overlooking the Limmat and not far from the train station, Zurich Marriott Hotel may not be everyone’s first choice, but its high-quality, reasonable price and excellent availability make it worthy of consideration when overnighting in the city.
Along the river between the train station and the lake, Storchen Zürich Hotel offers classic Swiss 5-star hospitality in what many deem to be the most idyllic location in the city. With balconies directly overlooking the river, you can expect to pay a little more to stay here, but most agree that the price is worth it!
Josephine's Guesthouse provides a safe space for female travellers in the city centre of Zurich. Pristine, clean rooms & affordability are highlights of this women-only hotel.
On the outskirts of the city, The Dolder Grand Hotel is one of those 'you have to see it to believe it' 5-star places to stay. Overlooking Zurich, prices are not as high as you might think. The hotel has both an original regal building & modern addition. Staying in the newer building surely defeats the purpose of the exercise.
Zurich Airport
If wanting to stay at the airport, the Hyatt Place Hotel provides the best combination of value, convenience, quiet, & style. There is a ghastly 'Capsule' Hotel in the airport terminal, plus a couple of other more worthy options. The surrounding district of Kloten has several other hotels close to the sirport, but mostly requiring a bus or tram to get to, which removes any benefit of staying here. Unless your flight is exceptionally early (or coming in exceptionally late), rather than staying at the airport, we recommend staying in central Zurich, enjoying its ambiance, & take the train to the airport when you need to leave (it only takes 12 minutes).
Search & book here for all Zürich Airport Accommodation.
More Reasons to Visit Zurich
If flying in and out of Zürich for the first time trip in Europe, there is no better way to start or end your Swiss ski holiday than with a night in Zurich - an unexpectedly fascinating city with broad appeal for travellers.
Zurich is for some very strange reason often regarded as one of the world’s most boring cities. Its reputation had us sucked in for many years and we avoided staying here at all. But having spent several nights in & around Zurich in the recent past, we can safely say that it has a lot going for it. As an addition to, or a short break from, a Swiss Alps ski trip, the city has plenty to do, see, & taste. And we say as ‘an addition to’, because let’s face it, you reason for being here is not visiting Zurich for a holiday, it is to go skiing elsewhere! So we recommend only spending a night or two in the city (&/or nearby Lucerne) at the start or end of a ski trip, co-ordinated with your arrival or departure flight from Zurich airport.
If staying overnight is not an option for you, being able to take a train directly from the airport to the Zürich city centre in just 12 minutes means it would be churlish of you not to visit, even if it is just for just a few hours of wandering.
Review
The Powderhounds have visited Zürich on numerous occasions and last visited in April 2024. Click on the review link in the left column of the overview (or top page if on a mobile) to read our thoughts.
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