Unterbäch Ski Resort Switzerland
Unterbäch ski area is a certified Powderhounds' gem, with authenticity & affordability, plus wonderful hospitality, powder skiing & backcountry ski touring its strengths.
Ski resorts like Unterbäch are one of the many small Swiss ski areas that are continually overlooked by international visitors. Whilst it has few of the accoutrements associated with the many, modern ski resort's of the Alps, what it has got is tradition & soul …… plus easy access to a load of 3,000m skiable peaks on north-aspect terrain and then a 1,800m vertical off & on piste descent back to a beer or five! What it also has is old-school honesty. Everyone just leaves their skis on the rack near the base chairlift overnight, and in a world that often tests our faith, that’s just so refreshingly nice!
Pros & Cons for Unterbach Ski Resort
Pros
- Cold, north-aspect terrain, with excellent quality snow in the upper mountain.
- Over 1,200m of skiable vertical off the ski lifts.
- Longest run of over 8km.
- Varied upper mountain freeride terrain for all abilities.
- Uncrowded & blissfully quiet, particularly during the week.
- Unlike many of the smaller resorts in Switzerland, there is top to bottom snowmaking at Unterbäch.
- Ski lifts provide exceptional ski-touring access to numerous 3,000m+ alpine peaks with skiable freeride descents including tree skiing.
- Affordable lift pass price that includes the lifts & pistes of neighbouring Eischoll.
- Non-ski activities include sledding & winter walking available.
- Free car parking for day trippers.
- Public transport is not only easy but incredibly interesting via the cable car from Raron.
- An honest, comfortable ski area that pleasantly reminds us that the world still has wonderful, calm places in which to experience our exhilarating sport.
Cons
- Slow, dated lift infrastructure.
- Small ski area that, if you are not ski-touring (we recommend that you do!), might struggle to keep your interest over a week.
Pro or Con (depending on your perspective!)
- On the cold, shaded side of the valley, which we love, but others hate. Sun lovers apply elsewhere!
- Village is quiet in general, and quieter after dark with nightlife limited to whatever is going on in the Hotel Alpenhof.
- Lowest part of the resort and village may not have natural snow either end of the season.
- Accommodation on the mountain can be limited during peak season, but you can stay in the valley easily enough.
Skiing & Snowboarding, Lift & Terrain
The Unterbach skiing & snowboarding terrain (locally often referred to as Brandalp-Ginals) extends a hefty 1,200m vertical from the base of 1,220 up to the highest lifted point of 2,420m. With the interlinked trails of neighbouring Eischoll included on the lift pass, Unterbäch provides a respectable 35km of pistes. The longest trail is a lusty 8km from top to bottom, all of which is covered by snowmaking.
Check out the Unterbäch Ski Trail Map below.
A pleasant novice area covered in snowmaking is at the base of the resort. Most of the beginner ski trails are merely snow-covered roads rather than true pistes, but with no one on them, that’s just fine. The best ski terrain (on & off-piste) is off the top T-bar which serves wonderful, diverse skiing on 430m(ish) of vertical that with a little bit of traversing can provide fresh lines all day during the week. The lower half of the pistes are often shared with sledders so keep an eye out; they often go faster than skiers. The final run back into Unterbach has several alternatives to suit all abilities. The direct black option can be seriously icy, but hey, a bit of ‘speed’ challenge to end the day is cool!
The ski lifts at Unterbach are of the more ancient variety, allowing for plenty of time to take in the lovely Swiss Alps surrounds. All the surface tows are from the ‘60s & ‘70s, whilst the two double chairlifts in the lower half of the mountain date from the mid-‘80s & ‘90s respectively. The speed of the lifts means one should rug up warmly as the hill is in the shade for much of the day in winter. Note that lift operation times vary depending on the time of the season. In the designated ‘low season’ (mid-January for example), lifts won’t start until a leisurely 10am.
An excellent reason to visit Unterbach is to use the lifts for access to skin up one of the nearby peaks above the resort. We skinned (and boot-packed the last bit) up the 3,050m Dreizehntenhorn, around 630m vertical above the top lift station. Despite what the trailmap suggests, it is possible to ski safely off the summit by continuing off the top in the opposite direction of the climb and descending via various permutations toward the saddle at Niggelinglicke then back down to the top of the T-bar. In stable conditions the steeps on its main face can be skied too, but with higher consequences. With the benefit of local knowledge & hindsight, the climb and descent of 2,839m Altstafelhorn looked to be the better proposition in fresh snow, as it descends all the way (850m vert) to the bottom station of the upper T-bar. Suffice to say there is quite a bit of adventure here! Of course if in doubt, get a guide.
Lift Passes
Lift tickets at Unterbach are super affordable & include the ski lifts & pistes of neighbouring Eischoll. If day-tripping using the train, one can pay a little extra (5CHF ish) to include a return trip on the cable car from the valley in Raron. Holders of Magic Pass ski here for free, every day of the season.
Where is Unterbäch Switzerland?
The Unterbäch ski resort rises above the village of the same name in the Valais of southwest Switzerland. Perched on the ‘mountain terrace’ on the cold-north-aspect side of the valley, getting to Unterbach is always via the Rhône River valley from either the village of Raron (if travelling on public transport) or Visp & Turtmann (if travelling by car) in. By road, Unterbach is about 225km (3¼hr, but includes a car train transport section) from central Zurich, and 225km (2¼hr) from Geneva.
The closest gateway airports are Geneva (GVA), Zurich (ZRH) & at a stretch Milan Malpensa (MXP). For intercontinental travellers to Switzerland, Zurich is the best entry point. Once in country, the recommended mode of travel to Unterbäch is by a combination of train and cable car.
If using public transport, one needs to take a train to Raron which is conveniently on the train line between Brig & Visp. From Raron, a cable car ride is required to complete the journey up to the village of Unterbäch. The cable car valley station at Raron is a 5min walk from the train station. The cable car runs every 30min from around 4am to 10pm. The valley station at Raron is not manned and loading is done remotely. The local ski lift pass has the option to include the Raron<-->Unterbach cable car, otherwise a separate ticket is required. Upon arrival at the top station, tickets need to be presented prior to exit. Alternatively, one can just buy a ticket from the window at the top station before exiting the terminal at Unterbäch. The ski lifts are a two-minute walk up behind the Hotel Alpenhof.
Search & book here for train & cable car tickets to Raron & Unterbach.
Unterbach Accommodation
Accommodations at Unterbäch are best in either of two main hotels. The Hotel Alpenhof is superbly situated in the main village between the top station of the cable car from Raron, and the ski lifts. Alternatively. in the lower end of the village, 10 minutes walk to the ski lifts, the convivial Hotel Walliserhof is where we stayed due to last minute availability. A lovely room, fantastic hospitality, wonderful food (the breakfasts in particular are excellent) and friendly hosts made the stay truly enjoyable. A rowdy night in the hotel bar with some Swedes didn't hurt either!
Search & book here for all Unterbäch ski accommodation.
Review
The Powderhounds reviewed Unterbäch in January 2024 and had a hoot in this time-warp ski area. We may return this season to explore more of its fabulous terrain. More information about this European ski resort is coming soon. Click on the review link in the left column (or top of the page if on a mobile) to read all the reviews.
See how Unterbach compares to the rest of the Swiss ski resorts on the Switzerland ski resort ratings page, or compare to the rest of Europe on the European ski resort ratings page.
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