On-piste riding at Gurgl was good fun. First time eating Kaiserschmarrn was delicious. Would be farking sick on a powder day...... but I went to Solden ....... which was farking sick!
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During a topsy turvy ski season of big winter storms, periods of high temperatures & rain, weeks of no new snow and everything in between, what stands out on a visit to Gurgl (Obergurgl-Hochgurgl) is the fantastic top to bottom coverage of that one important skiing ingredient – snow. The other important thing to know is that compared to its down-valley neighbour, Sölden, the number of people on the pistes is significantly less, and way more enjoyable.

We were in Ӧtztal waiting for the next storm and decided on an on-piste day at Gurgl to fill in the time. Being a midweek day in March, it was still surprising to park in a covered garage with no other day visitors cars evident. We expected a few more people, but perhaps the forecast of cloud & snow from lunchtime deterred the masses. It was quite a gloomy day, but such is life in the mountains.

On the hill, lifts lines were non-existent, the snow cover was excellent and the grooming out of this world. Some parts of the Obergurgl sector looked like they were groomed 25 PistenBully’s wide. The resort caters perfectly well to the progressing beginner/intermediate skier. On-piste, there are a few short trails for advanced skiers with the best of them the very quiet #13. There are very few snowboarders here. The one in our group was the only one we saw all day!

We spent some time checking out the terrain around Hohe Mut. There are quite a few off-piste freeride options, the best of which were the descents off the backside into the Rotmoostal. Depending on where you descend, some skinning or a bit of pushing is required to get back into the resort area, but nothing dramatic. Make sure to stop in for a drink & snack at the modern Schönwieshütte before the lunch crowd arrives. Perhaps somewhat surprisingly, the hut has the best toilets in the resort too!

As we had a car to get around, we stayed off the mountain in Oetz at the fabulous Gasthof zum Stern (in a building dating from the 1500s!). But it is easy to get all the way up and down the valley using the multiple free ski buses. In fact I had done just that earlier in the season when skiing Sölden solo. With a group on storm chasing trip, the rental car makes more sense though. If wanting to stay in the resort, the better atmosphere is in Obergurgl. There are loads of modern, well-appointed hotels to choose from, but prices are usually high & availability can be scarce if booking last minute.

The day car parks at Gurgl all require payment, however there are no gates or tickets involved. It is all done via a car registration plate recognition system. When going to pay before departure, make sure you know your plate number.

What Gurgl lacks in advanced on-piste terrain options, it more than makes up for in the quality of its other pistes, the perfect grooming, modern lifts and deceptively broad off-piste. With a little reconnaissance you will find some stellar, playful freeride terrain here, and great snow cover to go with it. The flowing day we skied 30 to 40cm of cold dry powder at Sölden, and I couldn’t help but wonder what Gurgl would have been like ……… Another time perhaps.

See our thoughts on the pros & cons of this resort on our Gurgl (Obergurgl-Hochgurgl) overview page.

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Just when one thinks they don't have a choice between the light & dark side, Obergurgl Hochgurgl presents us with one. Essentially two separate ski resorts combined under one lift pass & connected by a long traversing gondola, Hochgurgl is in the light - figuratively & metaphorically; Obergurgl holds up the banner for the dark.

Obergurgl has more freeride & on-piste challenges, a broader diversity of terrain, livelier village & a better overall 'vibe'.

Hochgurgl has a higher village that gets more sun & has better views, more family-friendly lifts & terrain plus a cracking toboggan run. The exception to Hochgurgl's 'light' status is the enthusiastic lunchtime live music, dance & booze sessions in the strange 'Top Mountain Star' bar/restaurant. Fun - definitely. Irresponsible - probably! The highest point of the resort at over 3000m elevation, the adjacent ski run down is a steep, skatey black affair that was strewn with bodies when we did it - mostly due to them skiing with a lunchtime bender handicap! (If in doubt, take the alternative cat-track down & leave the black run to sober individuals!)

In combination, Obergurgl & Hochgurgl form an excellent, world class ski resort that avoids the tawdry excesses associated with its nearest neighbour, Soelden.

We skied Obergurgl Hochgurgl during March in a diversity of weather & snow conditions. We skied waist deep powder, breakable crust, perfect groomed packed powder & sun baked slosh. Typical for March but all great fun. Whilst it attracts a crowd, the modern lifts & wide ranging terrain options soak up the numbers well, giving it a relaxed feel.

For the adventurous, Obergurgl is the place to be for first tracks & later. Hochgurgl is gentler & with more interrupted fall line off-piste so is of less interest to freeriders (with some notable exceptions). The huge terrain backcountry between the resorts is another thing altogether.....

If looking to stay in the resort, we would choose a hotel, apartment or pension in Obergurgl near the Hohe Mut & Rosskarbahn ski lifts. Alternatives down the Oetztal are aplenty plus are cheaper.

An Austrian destination ski resort of fine pedigree. Put it on your list.
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Obergurgl delivered an amazing ski experience in so many ways. Fresh powder in late March, great lift system, spectacular views, variety of runs and all with clear blue skies and low crowds (love mid week). The whole family loved our stay here.
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Obergurgl Hochgurgl is Austria's camouflaged diamond. It’s so close to Solden it is often missed but this is why you should head on up the extra 30 minutes on the bus. Arriving into the small quaint town you will def feel a quieter vibe than Solden but with a few hidden gems for a vibrant night life. The resorts are linked by a top express which means a weekend won’t quite cover it. 

More importantly, find yourself a guide and a mate and head on over into the valley between the two resorts. You wouldn’t know that you were in the centre of a commercial resort! The bars and restaurant on the hill are all warm and welcoming, none more so than the traditional and a little hard to get to is the Kirchenkarhutte restaurant. It’s very traditional and the goulash soup is the best on the mountain and of course it being Austria you’re never far from a gluewein tap to keep you warm and relaxed. 

From this point you can ski run 20 which is a consistent red with sharp drops and big rollers. You legs will be burning when you get to the bottom if you ski super G style. Also from this restaurant you can pick your point of the cat tracks route 21 and 20a into easy but slightly rocky off-piste routes which land you back on to 22 for a smooth ride back to lift. I could go on and tell you all the little gems where you can spend days getting lost but best leave you to find your own adventure.
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