I remember the last time I visited Schlick 2000 thinking that you just cannot see the potential of the place until right amongst it. And that’s not a bad thing. This visit in early March 2024 was no different as I hunted steep, freeride powder in a sector of Schlick I hadn’t previously explored. So much to love about this ‘small’ Austrian ski resort.

I came to the Stubaital to chase a promising storm (very promising as it turned out) and arrived from Italy to a green valley that was more reminiscent of late spring than late winter. Checking into my fabulous farm-stay accommodation on the fringes of Fulpmes at the highly recommended Pension Schottenhof, the air began to chill with the promised storm front approaching. After greeting the farm’s friendly oinkers & bovines, I wandered into town for dinner as the snow started to fall ….. perfect.

By morning the valley was transformed, with no signs of green grass to be seen under the hefty mantle of white goodness. A huge volume of snow in the high alpine had closed the road to Stubai Glacier, and it would remain that way for the next 36hours, but with Schlick just up the road, so be it. (Sidenote the following day I waited for 4 hr on the Stubai Glacier road before it opened to one of the deepest powder days of the season – it was unreal. See my Stubai Glacier review…)

Given the volume of snow (a metre of fresh snow above the tree line), Schlick was slow to open and there was an anxious crowd lined up & waiting for it. It snowed heavily throughout the day but below 1,600m the snow was best described as snot, so once the mountain opened, I spend the whole time cutting off-piste laps up around the Panorama chair and then off the Kreuzjoch backside exploring the many steep descents into the trees. This is certainly an adventure zone. With the visibility poor & avalanche danger high, I initially traversed under the top of the Kreuzjoch II gondola before dropping in down spur lines before an often wild, contorting traverse out along the summer walking trail to Galtalm restaurant. The Galtalm restaurant was sadly closed on this day, which was a shame as it has a great reputation. From the restaurant the #13 piste provided some complimentary muscle-burning on variable snow to complete the 800m ish vertical descent from the top. That’s quality half-off, half-on piste laps with deep untracked snow on every time in the top 400m vert. The whole zone is loads of fun but with some quite serious sectors & consequence. And it goes well with our Schlick theme, i.e. ‘ more than meets the eye’ as the zone is easy to dismiss or not notice altogether. Can’t wait to get back on a clear day and actually see it when I ski it!

Also checked out Schlick’s new ski lift, the 10-seat Galtberg gondola. It replaces an old T-bar, and whilst heading up the hill a little further (just a little), the lift really only adds to the resort’s capacity to move around beginners in poor weather, and then only just. At first glance, it seems an odd overcapitalisation, and then having used it, my opinion didn’t change. The pistes have definitely improved in the sector, but I still wonder at the decision-making process to put such an expensive, high-capacity gondola in this out of the way location.

For lunch I dined at the Froneben Alm near the novice tows and was well pleased with the service, food & surrounds. Something about warmth from a traditional ‘ceramic’ heater, massive cowbells, Austrian alpine architecture & fresh snow just makes lunch on the hill all the more wonderful. Affordable too.

I have skied Schlick twice now, both times in March (once early, once late), but both times the lower 300m vertical to the valley station has been closed to skiing. The realities of skiing these days is that the consistent snow line is heading higher up, and lower elevation sectors in ski resorts (below 1,200m in Austria) are becoming marginal. It is a shame, but not a deal breaker …….. yet!

And just like there is a whole lot more to Schlick than first meets the eye, so too is there a lot more going on in Fulpmes as well. Perfectly situated at the base of Schlick & off the main road through the Stubaital, the Fulpmes has all the best Austrian traditional elements without being over the top. There are some excellent places to dine, however midweek can be a struggle to get into them as a few of restaurants close during the week. Found myself in the local Kabab shop one night as a result. Not such a bad thing, just not what I was hoping for. Away from the kebab shops, for a delicious burger in the strangest location, try the Krösbacher - a butcher/deli by day and the village’s best fast food by night. There is a small dining area with a single shared table that is perfect for meeting new friends, and you can get beer & wine etc as well. For a more refined Tyrolean dinner experience, Restaurant Huisler Stube is excellent (book ahead though) or just down the road on the town square, the restaurant in Gasthof Dorfkrug (which doubles as a good café during the day) is just as good (but closed on Mondays). For after dinner drinks and a bit of fun it is hard to go past Leo’s Stadl. Don’t expect to be able to talk at a reasonable volume as the music is LOUD, but perhaps it’s not a place to talk!

Getting to Schlick & Fulpmes is incredibly easy from Innsbruck. I had the luxury of a rental car on this visit, but if don’t, the tram provides an excellent service to the edge of town, and from there it is easy to walk, bus or taxi to where one needs to go.

Schlick 2000 & the town of Fulpmes, when combined with Stubai Glacier, have everything you can ask for when skiing Austria. Uncrowded during the week, it is even possible to do backcountry ski-tours over the dividing Kalkkögel range to Axamer Lizum & back - something we will do on our next visit. To be in the region with lodging in a local farm stay when the snow is deep in the valley and the temperatures are cold is pure joy. You should try and find some joy here too.

See our thoughts on the pros & cons of the ski resort via our Schlick overview page.

See our video here

Reading up on Schlick 2000 it was advertised as a small resort, but it had much more that expected!
Modern lifts, wide open runs, heaps of varied terrain on offer, all in all it was a fantastic experience.
Loved the modern lift system, and the run from top to bottom of the resort was a good test for the legs.
Definitely one to return too!
See our video here

Dope as here, like a little Caldera nestled up there in the Alps. When you catch the gondola up there’s definitely a moment that goes through your head where you’re questioning your choices. Get up there, and it’s a little Disneyland.

Ski the top 6-seater above the tree line til it’s done, skiers left from there in the side country was very fun, but could be slidey so be careful.

After that’s done ski the trees down to the lowest loading 4-seater above the mid-load. Trees are steep and open enough that you can find lines all day. If you make a right from the gondola top station and traverse right across the top, the pitch/open ratio is unreal, less people, more fun, steep little gullies. In fact, don’t go there actually. You ski the groomers. You wouldn’t like it.
See our video here

A short 15 to 20min drive from central Innsbruck, Schlick2000 is the sort of ‘small’ ski resort that all Powderhounds will fall in love at second sight. Second sight because at first sight it is impossible to view the bulk of the ski area. As the access gondola passes mid-station & enters the alpine, a better sense of Schlick’s potential becomes apparent. Exiting the top station, the reason for the love is obvious.

The resort’s terrain is predominantly above 1650m & in a north-facing, snow attracting bowl hemmed in by a fine range of rocky ramparts which provide a perfect skiing back-drop. Despite being the end of March, & with the valley smelling delightfully of freshly sprayed cow manure, Schlick maintained a cold, deep snowpack. Relatively mild temperatures didn’t seem to affect the excellent quality snow either. Ok, there was an exception (as per the rule!). The valley trail to the gondola base was suffering badly. Enough that this little black duck downloaded at the end of the day from the mid-station – shameful but necessary.

Schlick is not a huge ski resort by any stretch of the imagination, but it has more than enough oomph to keep all abilities well satisfied. Novices have a mid-mountain area all to themselves, together with adequate progression lifts & slopes. Progressing beginners can tackle several long trails from top to mid station. Intermediates have the pick of trails & advanced riders can zoom down several steeper pistes, but also some marked routes (bumped), larch forest & open off-piste bowls. Experts will delight in the long backcountry options (including tree-skiing) descending into the valley under the upper gondola. Some easy boot-packing from the top of the 6-seater chair at Sennjoch & up the ridge to skiers left toward the 2611m Hoher Burgstall will get you fresh off-piste turns all day long .

Skiing Schlick on a sunny spring weekend brought out all manner of sun-soaking locals. Most seemingly with a preference for absorbing vitamin D & imbibing amber fluids, over actually skiing. The runs were bereft of humanity, but the many bars, sun terraces & lounge chairs were packed to overflowing. Mid-weeks must be splendid indeed!

Typically for an Austrian ski resort, the mountain restaurants are all first class. Brilliant views from the terraces at Kreuzjoch or Sennjoch are ‘par for the course’. Another five equally good propositions are at various points lower on the mountain. One of the more interesting is the Galtalm. Wonderful food served up for lunch is bookended with a fun tow to the Alm behind a snowcat (via a winter-walking trail) then a ski back down to the gondola mid station via a nice intermediate run. Looks like one can stay overnight as well – wish we’d packed the PJs!

The quick drive up from Innsbruck provides one of those wonderful travel outrages. Road tolls are paid on a short section of the Brenner road to access the Stubaital & then again, a short distance at the exit off - a nonsensical revenue raiser (makes sense (cents) after all)!

On the subject of driving to Schlick, it is worth knowing that signage to the ski resort once in the town of Fulpmes is inconspicuous so keep your eyes peeled! Car parking is plentiful undercover at the gondola terminal (costs) & further down the road out in the open (free but requires a walk/bus).

Schlick is a wonderful combination of a good value, great snow, fun off-piste & gorgeously located resort. What it lacks in acreage & skiable vertical, it makes up for with its Tirolean authenticity. And whilst not a destination ski resort in & of itself, Schlick is an Innsbruck powder day proposition of the highest order & a worthy contender for best ski resort at second sight……!

See our video here