For a relaxing, fun ski experience at Chamonix, don't forget to visit Balme-Tour -Vallorcine. Often dismissed as a beginner's ski area with old lifts, that somewhat justified reputation also brings with it a lack of crowds, gorgeous views, some excellent off-piste terrain & a feel for skiing the Chamonix of old.
The only multi-aspect ski area in Chamonix, Domaine de Balme has terrain covering west, east, north & sunny southerly aspects, providing great ski conditions on any given day in any prevailing wind.
The ski resort is far & away the best in Chamonix for improving beginner & intermediate skiers, but still has substantial off-piste powder potential on the cold, shaded north-aspect under & around the Tete de Balme chairlift toward Vallorcine. The valley into Le Tour village is an absolute beauty. In addition to the wonderful top to village piste trail it has several good freeride powder options on the right day.
When eating on the mountain, either brown bag it and sit on the loungers outside the picnic room at the top of the gondola at Charamillon or eat out at the lovely Restaurant Alpage de Balme huts near the L'Aiguillette surface lift. Either way, you can soak up the views of mountains & the entire valley. The sun does takes a bit longer to hit the Charamillon lodge in mid-winter.
Accommodation wise, Le Tour is the most authentic of the Chamonix villages & has several lodging options as close to ski-in as one can get in the valley. It’s learn-to-ski area ( La Vormaine) is the best in the valley, extending out from the top of the delightful village, with glacier snouts clinging to the high ridges above adding to the experience. The gondola up to the ski area leaves from the top of town & buses link easily to the other Cham ski areas.
The Vallorcine side of the resort is super cold & super quiet. Deep in shadow during winter, staying here would test the mettle of the hardiest powderhound. Several good accom options, a train station linking it to Martigny in Switzerland & Chamonix, low people numbers, plus a gondola within 100m of the train station more than make up for the cold temps & no sunshine. Access from Vallorcine goes straight to the best advanced terrain on Balme too.
Go here on a powder day & reap the rewards! I repeat, don't forget to ski Balme when visiting Chamonix....