We rate Montgenèvre. Highly! It is the Voie Lactee's secteur magnifique.

It is no surprise that we love a ski area that combines great skiing, huge terrain & reliable snow with a rock bottom lift pass price. Even though we love skiing everywhere in the world, deep down, we are tight-arses (fair enough, right?). That is why we love Montgenevre & the Via Lattea. Any Alps ski lift pass under €40 for a massive chunk of terrain is as good as free in our book! Writing reviews through rose coloured glasses is so much easier too. Whilst it costs extra to get Montgenevre included on a standard Via Lattea lift pass (or is that a Voie Lactee pass?), the consistently deep snowpack & wonderful terrain diversity are worth the few extra shekels. And if staying in Montgenevre, the local lift passes are sensational value (& can still include Italy at Claviere). Another benefit is the Montgenèvre lift system is the most modern & efficient in a region not renowned for it. Whilst it is true that old, crappy lifts are a great way to keep the lift pass prices down at the Via Lattea’s ridiculously cheap level, Montgenevre thankfully bucks the trend.

Montgenevre’s ski terrain is spread across three broad sectors on both sides of the pass & covers all directional aspects. It includes sensational larch forests below all the high alpine goodness. Whilst it hasn’t got the longest skiable vertical in the region (at 820m its short for Europe, but still good in comparison to Nth America, Japan et al) the terrain diversity more than make up for it.

The off-piste has soooo many awesome & easily achievable options. Freeriders will love the ’mini Alaska-like’ fluted spurs coming off the perfect Le Chalvet ridge (even have random hoodoos thrown in for good measure). The chutes, bowls & trees on the backside of Serre Thibaud is wonderful (try to avoid the protected wildlife habitat – it is well signposted). The couloirs, bowls & trees accessible from the high border crossing at the top of the Roche de l’Aigle chair ……… the list goes on.

On-piste, the resort is easily the best in the region for novices, progressing beginners & intermediates. The combination of high-alpine and tree-lined piste trails is wonderful. The resort has several terrain parks too which may be of interest to some. A broad learn-to-ski opposite the village (seamlessly connected because the main road goes through a tunnel underneath here!) allows safe & easy access for all involved. Away from the beginner zones, the piste trails offer some fantastic sliding for all abilities. Even our crusty visages cracked a smile cruising around the various groomers. The tree lined runs were a god-send on one particularly grey gloomy day.

If based in Montgenèvre & interested in skiing the entire Via Lattea you will need a Via Lattea International ski pass. However, with a car, the journey down to Cesana is only a few minutes, allowing one to catch the gondola up to Sansicario & only forking out for a cheap Italian sector Via Lattea ski pass. Everyone except the driver of the car will then be able to ski back to Montgenevre at the end of the day. If you have multi day passes, you can get a cheap(ish) extension for the day to include the Italian zone. Good to know is that the standard Grand Montgenèvre ski pass includes most of the good bits of Claviere up to Colle Bercia, so this will suffice for most. Claviere is the quietest sector of the entire Via Lattea. A touch limited in the off-piste realm; its long, easy rolling terrain will delight most snow enthusiasts. Coming back into Claviere from the top of the Roche de l’Aigle chairlift in Montgenevre provides a sensational opportunity for freeride shenanigans.

The village at Montgenèvre is a comfortable mix of old & new but has started trending toward too much new development. The old town centre still retains its character but feels like it is being slowly consumed! There may be no ghastly 1970/80s style French Alps developments that blight so many ski resorts in France, but you get a sense that if it gets much bigger, it will have gone too far. Regardless, the real beauty of the village is that everything is near a lift or ski trail. From our perspective, there are only a few locations to stay though. In the heart of the village at a traditional gen like the Hôtel Alpis Cottia & its lively Brasserie Le Graal. Or further east on the other side of the Chalvet gondola in a ski-in ski-out location, at either the Chalet Le Pot de Miel (probably the resort’s best overall accommodation) or Anova Hotel & Spa (probably the resort’s best hotel)

One massive notable difference between the Italian & French sides of this border region is the plethora of mountain rifugio style bars, restaurants & lodgings in Italy & the relative lack of them in France. Italy – 1, France – nil! It is a shame, but if that is the worst part of Montgenèvre, then it is not too bad. Lazing about at Les Terrasses De Montgenèvre on Chalvet certainly will not be the worst thing you do on a ski Holiday! Also, 3 of the 4 better rifugi up on the mountain in Claviere are within the Grand Montgenevre ski pass zone, so perhaps this entire paragraph is too nationalistic & of little real use………..! Anyway, if in doubt, head to Italy for lunch!

Anyone looking for a wonderful European ski experience with low crowds & on a budget, need look no further than Montgenevre & the broader Via Lattea. We have never skied here in deep powder but know it would be fantastic. We can’t wait to return if a powder day opportunity arises & we are within a few hours’ drive. Chances are high!

You can see our thoughts on the pros and cons on the Montgenevre overview page and also see our European ski resort ratings regarding how we score it compared to other skiing areas.

See our video here

One day at Montgenevre was a pleasant skiing. They had more snow than other areas around due to unique geographic location I guess. Week, or so after last snow fall they still had some nice powder to ride. Lifts were great, slopes uncrowded. Could have more decent options for food on the mountain, right now one place serving some regular uninspiring food.
See our video here

A high altitude base with reliable snowfall and a traditional village with a sunny disposition are a great start for any ski resort and Montgenevre has both. 

Montgenevre has the best diversity of piste trails (greens, blues, reds and blacks) in the entire Via Lattea. Across the road from the village the learn to ski area is broad and wonderful for newbies. The very tasty off-piste has fresh tracks available for days after a snowfall. Some options for long backcountry runs exist for the adventurous.

The lift system is a mix of the old and new. It takes some time to work out how to navigate it efficiently. The main access lifts are quite a distance apart and much of the more interesting advanced terrain is served by old surface lifts.

A variety of ski in / ski out accommodations are also a handy feature of the ski resort. The village is small and quiet after dark. 

Super cheap local lift passes and additional lift pass links with the Monts de La Lune, Via Lattea and the excellent Serre Chevalier in nearby Briancon, make it a sweet contemplation for any Powderhound. Note that skiing to the Via Lattea resorts of Sestriere & Sauze d'Oulx from Montgenevre is not really practical or enjoyable. Driving to Cesana and taking the gondola to Sansicario is the best option.

The ski resort's base area and car parks can get very crowded on weekends, but hey, where doesn't! Hint for those traveling by car for the day on weekends, either get there early, or avoid the dodgy roadside car parking antics and just pay a few euro for parking in the official lots adjacent to the village.
See our video here