Tucked away deep in the mountains of Svaneti Georgia, the village of Mestia is the fascinating staging point for some of my best winter ski adventures. Complete with the signature Svan fortified tower houses built as early as the 12th century, Mestia’s current existence is unashamedly about tourism. Judging by the number of cafes, guesthouses and hotels, the summer trade must be massive here. In winter though, it is certainly quieter, but still has a sense of bustle through the middle of the day.
When it is cold, the town’s roads & lanes are perilous for drivers and pedestrians alike. Road clearing is limited to the main thoroughfares only. Luckily, I wasn’t driving as the stress would not have been dissipated by the exhilaration of being here.
The trip from Kutaisi airport to Mestia was high adventure indeed. I flew Wizz Air from Vienna which was fine. Meeting my driver, a Mestia local, and taking about 6 hours in the dark, the drive included a few food & booze stops (including some fine homemade cheese & bread plus a fiery cha-cha that sparked the driver up a little!), heavy snow & ice, rockfalls, deep ruts, washouts, avalanche debris, plus wandering stock & other beasts on the road to dodge. Glad I wasn’t driving, although at times I would gladly have been the driver as opposed to the passenger with no control over proceedings. The return journey was in daylight an put it all into stark perspective including its own highlights which would fill another volume. Great fun indeed.
Ski-wise, if it’s your first time in the region and you do not speak the language, I recommend being on an organised tour. The simple reason is the ease of logistics - transport, accommodation, meals, transfers, guiding, local knowledge/connections - everything you need taken care of so you can enjoy yourself. To come here independently entails a whole lot of complications that are best avoided if you want to ski the best powder.
Close to Mestia is Hatsvali which is great on a stormy day with deep powder, or to just stretch the legs on some nice pistes. Further up the road is the car park at Tetnuldi ski area where all the best adventures begin in the region, with the possible exception of the Chalaadi Glacier located on the opposite side of the valley.
The Hatsvali chairlift is on the edge of town. It is within easy walking distance if you are fit, or skinning distance if the roads are covered in snow. You will have to negotiate some crazy drivers, wandering cows, friendly street dogs and maybe a pig or two(!) along the way, but such is life in Mestia. If you love dogs, there are some beautiful big friendly ones in the town. If wanting to get up into the ski terrain, it is possible to drive (or much better to be driven) to mid-mountain at the gondola base. The road is narrow, so timing is everything!
I won’t rabbit on about the ski areas, read about them on their specific pages.
Food wise, I had most meals at the guesthouse I was staying in (and as always in Georgia, it was staggeringly delicious & satisfying) but managed a sneaky lunch or two in town. One of the best cafes is Blue Mountains. Its terrace sits beautifully over the Mestiachala River looking towards Hatsvali. Food is delicious ….. of course. A traditional ‘tone’ oven bakery in the centre of town. The scrumptious fresh baked bread (puri) costs 2 GEL a loaf. Practically free.
There are loads of bars in the village. A nice one that would be comfortable in any cool city centre across the globe is ‘Twin Peaks’. ‘Dissident Bar & Kitchen’ is open from 10am to 2am every day and enjoys spanking views up the river gorge to a nest of Svan towers. It serves everything from porridge and eggs in the morning, to dumplings & cocktails in the wee hours.
If you want to climb one of the many tower houses dotted through the town, the Machub Nigurian Tower museum is open most days (unlike other tower museums). It is located just off the main road, up a side street just before Alp House Mestia. The family doesn’t speak English which makes it even more fun. The tower dates from the 12th century and from the top there are wonderful ‘insta worthy’ views across the village through the small openings.
The town has most of the services one could require on a ski trip including ski & snowbaord rental in two locations. The best of them is Ride Svaneti as it rents full alpine touring & backcountry gear, plus it does a good job at ski repairs - a very rare commodity in Georgia!
As cash is king in Georgia there are loads of ATMs in the town. Some are incredibly dodgey. I have one rule in Georgia. Only use the Bank of Georgia ATMs to withdraw cash. There is a Bank of Georgia in the town with a load of cash machines, plus another in a shop window across the road.
Whilst once the town was dominated by family-run guesthouses and had only a few hotels, there is now a plethora of them. On price and authenticity, staying in a guesthouse is the best option. Ome of the hotels are very good, but why pay western Europe prices in a town when there is gorgeous lodgings at Georgian prices (i.e. cheap).
In summary, if ski adventure, ski-touring & powder are your thing, Mestia & Svaneti is your place. Come here next season, because you’ll only be one year older if you don’t! (Thanks Warren)
See our thought on the pros & cons of the airport & staying in the city on our Mestia overview page.