What a wonderful way to start a European ski trip. Arriving after a 13hr flight (the second flight on a 22-hour marathon!) at Zurich airport, I exited the plane at 7.45am, went through immigration, baggage & ablutions, checked a few emails via the airport’s excellent Wi-Fi, and was standing on the train platform within 45min. Absolutely glorious. To be fair, I have been here before (often), so it wasn’t a complete mystery to me, but still, that is as good a going as any international arrival anywhere in the world.
The train I wanted was heading to Bern. Departing at 8.45am, I had actually anticipated having to take the next one an hour later. Thanks to Swiss efficiency, even I was surprised to comfortably make the earlier train. To make the transition more efficient from plane to train, I had pre-purchased a train/bus ‘point to point’ ticket all the way through to my first ski destination, Lauchernalp. A train transfer at Bern, walk to a waiting bus at Goppenstein dropped off at my hotel in Kippl, a quick change and walk to Wiler and I was riding the cable car up to Lauchernalp before lunch. Skied powder that afternoon. That’s so good, and why I love arriving in Europe via Zurich.
The previous year from Zurich airport I did a similar journey but further on beyond Brig to Leukerbad. A 3½hr journey time with the train travelling through all the classic Swiss countryside, and then a scenic bus ride up to the spectacularly located village. What a way to start a trip.
Interestingly, whilst I had travelled through & around Zurich many times in the last decade, and stayed in airport hotels several times, my first time staying overnight in the city was March 2024 and, because it was so good, again in early April 2024. For reasons of both convenience and price, both times I stayed in a fantastic upper-level room at the Fred Guest House, Zürich Hauptbahnhof. Literally just a few steps across from the main train station, it is close to some great eateries, a supermarket (easy for a budget breakfast on the run!), and within a delightful stroll of the river, the nightlife district along Niederdorfstrasse, and all the sights up to the lake. Worth knowing, my previous stays at the airport have always been overnight at the excellent Hyatt Place Zurich Airport in 'The Circle' just in front of the main airport buildings. Not the cheapest, but certainly the best, it is well appointed and within walking distance of the airport terminal and all the transport links (train, tram, bus, taxi, rental car.) and convenient to everything. Unless ones flight is super early in the morning, I would be inclined to stay in the city near the train station and enjoy its ambiance for a night.
When staying at Freds, one doesn’t have to stray too far from the train station to get a good feed. For traditional food, the Brasserie Zum Vorbahnhof (really a pub!) has it all for a reasonable price right next to the station. You may have to fight the locals for a table in the evening as there always seems to be a lot of small groups playing cards over a beer or five. And if you a heartily tired of Swiss food, around the corner, the Syrian cuisine Sham Restaurant is absolutely stellar. Massive quantities of delicious middle-eastern food that is worth every penny.
Without a doubt, I think Zurich is the best entry point for intercontinental travellers to access the best ski resorts in the Alps. Its flight, train & highway connectivity is second to none. Shame it is Switzerland because it costs so much. But then again it is so good because it is in Switzerland! Perfection does come at a price.
See our thought on the pros & cons of staying in the city on our Zurich overview page.