Travelling Europe & seeking out the biggest, best, steepest, powder laden ski resorts sometimes makes one lose sight of the simple things. Sometimes there is nothing more splendid than waking up to a view across a rural Tyrolean landscape, fresh snow on the ground, mountains as far as the eye can see, the resident dairy herd mooing their greetings & the prospect of some cheeky fresh snow fun at a petite local ski resort. And so it is at Oberperfuss (or is it Rangger Koepfl?) – splendid.
A typically European skiable vertical of over 1100m, Oberperfuss is a ski hill that makes no lofty claims, other than it previously won an award for ‘friendliest mountain staff’ (we can confirm that but will elaborate later). Despite its notable skiable vertical, Oberperfuss is a small ski resort with probably its greatest asset not even related to skiing, but sledding. Literally fun for all the family, the combination of sledding and skiing promises a day’s snow entertainment like no other.
The skiing is a pleasing mix of intermediate, beginner & advanced trails effectively on one pitch along a north-aspect ridge from top to bottom. The snow is squeaky cold up the summit, transitioning to icy nastiness or mush down low at the village. Never mind though; the three traditional huts on the hill will provide libations to assist in forgetting the worst results of the mix, plus the slopes are deserted mid-week, softening the blow even more. The 2-stage gondola is a fantastic asset in such a small ski resort & effectively covers ¾ of the terrain. Quality lifts are becoming increasingly common around Innsbruck, with similar recent upgrades to lifts at Patscherkofel & Glungezer.
As for the sledding, it never ceases to surprise us how fast they go. Most non-Europeans imagine sledding as a lame hill with folks (mainly children) dragging up crappy, plastic sleds of death & hurtling down uncontrollably for a full 3 second ride. Not here. Sledding is serious business, with serious gear (easily rented) and purpose groomed trails dedicated to the sport. At Oberperfuss, the full 10km trail (yes that’s 10km) can take as long or fast as you want, just remember to stay to the right if going slow. Takes a skill & courage that we are yet to master. Need more practise – clearly, we spend too much time snuffling for powder rather than chasing the real Alps exhilaration on the rodelbahn trail!
After a late start due to excessive time spent admiring the local bovines, we never got to check out the backcountry from the top of Rangger, but it looks to be gentle alpine touring terrain or more serious if you want it. The options are expansive when the snow level is all the way into the valley during the coldest parts of winter. Another time perhaps. (Gee the list of things we have to go back & do just gets longer & longer.)
At the end of day as the lifts ground to a halt, we found ourselves at the top of the gondola (1650m elevation) and suffered a catastrophic gear failure. Resigned to walking down the significant 800m vertical in the fading light, a friendly middle-aged lift operator indicated that I should just wait & all will be OK. Are you sure, I asked? Of course, he replied. A snowmobile duly arrived and I loaded on behind the driver for a speedy ride down to the mountain’s mid-station, where I found out the entire first stage of the gondola was kept running just so I could get safely down the hill. Now that is service, and with a smile. Well done Oberperfuss, you have won my heart (particularly after losing it initially by having to pay for parking!)
Accommodation wise, we stayed in a huge apartment at the top of a family farm dwelling just near Oberperfuss. We recommend it for the full Austrian experience – particularly if you have rented a car. Kuhtai & Axamer Lizum ski resorts are surprisingly close-by too. However, one could just as easily stay in old town Innsbruck & journey up for the day on the bus.
So, if you are seeking a rural Austrian atmosphere, close to a gorgeous city with a combination of skiing, sledding & ski touring, spend a day or two at Oberperfuss-Rangger. If nothing else, you could meet the friendliest mountain staff in the world – reason enough to go! Give them my regards.