If ever there was a polar opposite between two ski resorts, Garmisch Classic & it’s lift pas linked neighbour Zugspitze are it. Where Zugspitze is high alpine treeless bowl/glacier & quite unfriendly in poor viz; Garmisch is low elevation, on piste, tree lined cut runs that work well in a storm. So whilst opposites, they are also complimentary.

Skiing at Garmisch is certainly a magical mystery tour for a first-time visitor. The trail map is quite misleading in the distance between the highest lifted point at Osterfelderkopf (2050m) and the top of the Kreuzeckbahn gondola. It is a long, long way. Snowboarders with no fitness OR T-bar riding skills may find out to their detriment.

Garmisch has several redeeming features & a few not so redeeming. We loved the multi-pronged access by car, train or bus. We loved the classically European mix of rural hay barns & ski resort infrastructure. We loved the lightning fast valley runs. And we loved the après at the Hausberghuette – toasting everyone that survived skiing the resort in absolute high season.

The outstanding long advanced piste trails are a feature as are the skiable vertical & learn-to-ski/ beginner areas at the top of the Hausberg gondola. What is not so great is the confusing terrain requiring some long “snowboard walking” traverses and (unusually for a ski resort) the minimal amount of ‘true’ intermediate trails.

We skied the mountain from first lifts in the busy new year holiday period and ran the top to bottom runs when in their best condition. Even before the heavy holiday traffic made them all “challenging”, we thought that the two longest intermediate pistes (Olympia & Kochelberg) had long sections that would designate them as advanced anywhere else. Great for strong intermediates & advanced sliders, not so great for anyone else looking to ski top to bottom. Limited freeride terrain is another non-redeemer. Local knowledge is a key, but our recon revealed very little that didn’t require a lot of effort for limited reward.

The ascent of Osterfelderkopf from the valley is quite the ride in an outdated cable car (Alpspitzbahn) that fails to cope on busy days. Ride it early – first lifts. At the top is access to Garmisch Classic’s major freeride terrain & the best snow quality intermediate piste on the mountain. A good little restaurant provides great value traditional fare. Around the back of the summit, in a none too obvious location in winter, are two spectacular cantilevered viewing platforms overhanging the dramatic precipice down to the valley.

The skiing ends at a narrow cliff lined defile then opens up again for a long schuss down & slightly up toward the next lifts. Go fast here or you are walking/pushing. We took the option to do the next run down to the base of the Bernadeinlift T-bar via an extremely disconcerting crossing through the T-bar line. In many countries this sort of crossing would not be able to function safely. I am still not convinced. The knuckles were white as we made our own ascent via the trail intersection. Steely staring at each skier hurtling down toward us.

Continuing along one arrives at Hochalm. There is no snow making here so trails can get a little plocky, with small stones working their way to the snow surface in the highly skied parts of the piste. From Hochalm, a small cable car ascends to the peak again or one continues the mystery tour. The ensuing traverse requires speed as it travels through terrain more reminiscent of Nevada, Arizona or southern Utah in the USA. Fang-like icicles above & hoodoo rock outcrops below draw the attention just as you should concentrate on maintaining speed to get over the next slight incline.

The important link in the Garmisch Classic chain, the Längenfelderbahn chairlift, wasn’t running. Shame because it has some tasty looking terrain. Sad reality is that it needs snowmaking. (It was running a few days after our visit following a significant snowfall.) When not running, one cannot travel in the reverse direction without a significant uphill walk. An ugly little rope tow is the final piece in puzzle to link back into the main resort. Your relief at exiting the rope tow will be palpable. I will skate up next time!

Heading toward Hausberg, one enters a superb learn-to-ski & beginner ski area served by a chair & a myriad of surface tows. The myriad of lifts was in direct proportion to the number of beginner skiers gracing the slopes. A wonderful place to learn to ski or board (……. at a quieter time of year!).

Of the two base areas, Hausberg is the more pleasant due its compact infrastructure, better après & food, proximity to town, superb ski servicing, children’s play & learn-to-ski area plus better parking. We found the transport links to Kreuzeck/Alpspitzbahn base to be excellent as well, but the further distance, unfriendly bar staff & woeful ski service staff put us off.

There is no doubt that Garmisch Classic will polarise opinion. I am a tad torn between love & hate. Allowing for the time of year of our visit and the fabulous town at its base, I am leaning towards love. A visit here for few days during midweek will bring its rewards. The tear-inducing speed able to be reached on the Kandahar not the least of them. A visit to nearby Zugspitze will top it off. Probably best to stay away in the poorer snow seasons though as the low altitude base is increasingly climate challenged. POW – Protect our winters!