Powderhounds tend to love the smaller ski resorts of the world. There are a few reasons why. Chief among them is the general reduction in humanity which lends itself to uncrowded slopes, more fresh lines, less noise and no lift queues. Pejo is one such small ski resort. Remember of course that the notion of 'small' is a classic understatement when it comes to skiing in Europe. Pejo has a 1600m skiable vertical, far surpassing most North American and all Japanese ski resorts by a long way.

Whilst a few people did arrive after 11am, Pejo ski resort was blissfully deserted from first lifts during our peak season mid February visit, a stark contrast to the bedlam at nearby Folgarida Marilleva.

Pejo is only a short drive or bus ride away from the main Val di Sole centre of Mezzana. The car park is only 50m for the base gondola station, but it is paid parking. Also near the base area is an old two seater chairlift and perfect sheltered beginners slope. The slope spends alot of time in the shade in mid winter, so may be a tad cold and unpleasant when combined with the snail’s pace of the chairlift.

By contrast, the gondola ascends to a sunny bench called Tarlenta at 2000m elevation, from where most of the ski terrain begins. A neat little learn to ski area and tube slope with two surface conveyors are nearby, below the excellent Rifugio Scoiattolo.

The real action starts from the cable car up to 3000m to Val della Mite. The intermediate piste from the top is bordering on a black slope in poor visibility, but otherwise presents itself as a truly glorious 1600m descent all the way into the valley. A few of these laps at speed and one's thighs are truly being tested! The lower parts of the run do get skied off and a bit skatey towards the end of the day.

Off piste powder opportunities are skiers left and right of the main piste in the high alpine on the first 600m vertical. We found windblown powder, and within no time at all, worked out some easy freeride options.

Three other chairlifts all serve beginner to intermediate piste trails in the snow sure zone above 2000m elevation. Off piste variations exist but are all relatively short.

A second upper mountain rifugio, the Doss dei Cernbri, exists at 2350m. It does wonderful and cheap grilled meat panini and delicious calimeros to keep the winter chill away (& your courage up!).

Doing a full off piste descent below Tarlenta into the base at Peio Fonti would be great fun and could include some tree skiing. Unfortunately, this south facing area was suffering from a lack of skiable white stuff. Suppose we will have to return!

There are magnificent backcountry descents available at Pejo, particularly via ascents of the 3644m Monte Vioz which looms over the resort.

We loved the nearby town of Cogolo. An après ski Aperol Spritz combined with a wander around its ancient laneways and church grounds. Don't be afraid to enter the old church even if it looks locked, it isn't. The interior will surprise and delight. Similarly the walk up to and around the castle at nearby Ossana is a brilliant distraction from skiing.

Come to Pejo to experience a blissful 'small' Italian ski resort.
See our video here

It's all about the PEJO 3000 which sounds like the something from Bladerunner but is the big ass cable car which takes you from an innocuous base station to a nose bleeding 3000 meters.

The terrain is a bit limiting and the off piste virtually non existent without crampons. If you are up for a fast, steep blast down some cracking groomers then Pejo is for you.

Worth a visit if you are in the area.
See our video here