The first time at Samnaun we traveled there by ski on the 'Smugglers Route' from Ischgl. A fun trip, we thought it an incredibly weird place then. Second time round confirmed it - Samnaun is best described as a weird ski resort. So much so that it should be visited at lest once to experience its weirdness!

This time round we travelled by car from our apartment in Pfunds Austria. Pfunds is fabulous location from which to ski a whole lot of Austrian, Swiss or Italian ski areas. And we did. With some fresh snow on the ground, but high winds we opted for Samnaun on the basis that my partners in crime also wanted to shop for some new ski apparel!

The road to Samnaun was icy and would be quite 'sporting' in icy conditions. Of the two roads to the valley, the one via Spiss in Austria is the best maintained in winter. Amongst spectacular mountain scenery, it leads into the isolated valley with what one hopes is a glorious traditional alpine village at its end. Alas all one gets is tawdry Samnaun.

Only a few day trippers were there to ski. We have found that a large portion of skiers in the resort come across from the Austrian side, so with the connecting lifts to Ischgl closed due to strong upper mountain winds and no visibility, the slopes were quiet. Snow was fresh and deep, but terrain was limited and uninspiring in the prevailing weather conditions. The weather exposes the resort for its lack of a valley trail and lack of lower alpine terrain with trees. Rather than a ski back via the Smugglers Run, downloading was required on the double decker cable car. The beginner area in the valley was in fine condition though and heavily utilised.

Skiing aside, the real weirdness of Samnaun is its duty-free status. We have been to numerous 'duty-free' ski regions previously (Livigno & Andorra to name a few). Each has a distasteful vibe to it, in the shopping districts. But this is Switzerland, so aside from the questionable vibe associated with shopping at a ski resort; having a duty-free status merely makes it 'almost' competitive with a standard Austrian outdoor shop or liquor store in the adjacent valley! What is the point? Every hotel in the village has duty free shopping and granted there are a few items that are cheaper to buy (like Victorinox kitchen knives). Sadly the lack of quality, affordable ski gear (a VERY disappointed crew!), and the plethora of jewelry, watches, perfume, cigars and booze for sale, render it as a place to avoid. Driving back into Austria, just to complete the strange Samnaun experience, one passes through a customs checkpoint. Waving to the bemused customs officer denoted the last time we will ever visit.

Samnaun WILL appeal to some people. Judging by the numbers of people in the stores, that is a true statement. The combination of shopping, hotels, restaurants, mountains and skiing are too strong an allure for some. But it is not to the Powderhounds taste. Definitely worth experiencing, but do it on skis from Austria, check it out, then get the hell out of Dodge!
See our video here

Its 'nice' skiing in Samnaun, but it is also a tad strange. Not the skiing so much, but the whole 'duty-free' shopping thing. The history of the area as a smugglers route should be enough of a hook to enjoy the local skiing, but coming across from Ischgl, it felt like we were heading for a day out at a shopping centre – not something we generally look forward to. The duty-free shops & packed lunchtime restaurants at Samnaun Dorf held very little interest for this reviewer. We cannot imagine too many skiers splurging on the over-priced cigars, watches, perfume & booze, but presumably some must. So strange....

Putting the duty -free aside, Samnaun strikes us as a lovely family Swiss ski holiday destination. Interlinked with Ischgl, it has all the benefits of the diverse terrain & modern lifts at its Austrian neighbour, without the associated huge crowds & après ski excesses.

Below Samnaun Dorf village a sheltered novice ski area is adorned with giant tulips no less. Up on the mountain at over 2200m elevation in the snow laden basin at Alp Trida, another children’s ski area & excellent beginner slopes provide the best of the Silvretta Arena’s family ski terrain.

Access to Alp Trida is via the double decker cable car to Alp Trida Sattel. The journey provides a front row seat to some serious off-piste terrain back into the valley, but once up, it is obvious the resort is a high alpine beginner- intermediate piste paradise. Wide groomers and hooded chairs extend in all directions from Alp Trida serving a steady, but relatively short, 300 to 500m of skiable vertical. Notable exceptions are the two long valley trails. The lift-served rolling off-piste at Samnaun presents few steep opportunities except from Greitspitze, where a ridge can be followed into several pleasing, but short lines. Anyone chasing steeps needs to head into Ischgl but go early to avoid the crowds.

At the end of a day, you can do alot worse than having a few beverages on the spectacular deck of the Sattel restaurant, then sliding the 1000m vert back into Samnaun via easy piste. Nice place for a feed as well (either side of the Ischgl crowd influx!). For a true après ski session though, Ischgl is the place. Just remember, if staying in Samnaun, to consider the timing & terrain for the journey back!

Even though the village is disconnected into 5 different 'hamlets', getting around Samnaun is easy either on foot, skis or via the free buses constantly rotating through.

If you are into the combination of duty-free shopping & pleasant sun-soaked skiing, Samnaun is the place for you. If you are into just pleasant sun-soaked skiing with your family, then Samnaun is for you too! Having Ischgl on the same lift pass is a bonus.

See our video here