Having visited Val d’Isere on a previous jaunt through the Haute Tarentaise, there were equal elements of excitement & trepidation as I drove up the valley. Excitement because there was a pile of new snow in the region so exploring its fabulous off-piste would be fun. Trepidation because of people and cost ……… too much of either! Turns out the biggest trepidation should have been avalanches, but that’s another story!

Checking out Val d’Isere in mid-March during an abnormally warm winter in the Alps makes complete sense. Its location in the French Alps combined with a high base & summit elevation all but guarantees the best snow in France. A snowfall of over a metre had just been deposited so it was definitely ‘game on’. I was interested to see if the crowds midweek in March were comparable to previous visits in January (I wouldn’t ever come here during Christmas/New Year or February!). Turns out they are, which is ok. Turned out also that the snow depth & quality in the context of the season that had gone before, was way better than it deserved to be, and another reason why Val d’Isere is a must ski resort for all powder hounds.

The key to any visit to Val d’Isere is start early (let’s face it, that’s a key to skiing just about anywhere). With nearly 60,000 beds between here & Tignes, competition can be tough, particularly if the sun is out. To avoid disappointment, I started the day at the Le Fornet cable car. For mine, this sector, in combination with the Laisinant chairlift (arguably a better starting point if starting from the free ski bus) holds the best terrain and tends to be quieter than further down the valley. On stormy days the lower section has delightful larch & pine forest terrain with a perfect powder pitch.

Parking is limited at Fornet, but if taking one of the many free ski buses there, that becomes a moot point. The first Fornet cable car for skiers left at 8.50am and contained 4 passengers (including me). That’s a good start at a ski resort like Val d’Isere. Heading all the way up to the top of the Pissaillas glacier allowed first use of all pistes, off-piste and lifts pretty much by my lonesome. Snow quality & quantity was excellent providing stunningly good riding. Skiing the tracked sidecountry off-piste terrain of the Vallons from the Signal surface tow and then inbounds off the same lift was fantastic.

By 10.30am the crowd had well and truly arrived. The clunky old Vallons gondola had a long, but not intolerable line, whilst the adjacent Pyramides chair had no line…. go figure. Further up, the Col surface tows lines became lengthy. A little surprising how old some of the lift infrastructure is in this sector of Val d’Isere.

Moving over to the popular Solaise sector via the ‘up and over’ Leissieres chair is fun, but definitely not frightening as some would suggest. The Solaise zone is full of progressing beginners and intermediate skiers. An awesome steep off-piste zone below this leads to the Laisinant base. With avalanche danger high, the linking Piste L was closed (several slides from the solar aspects had come across the piste) creating a full double black off-piste paradise for any wanting to take up the challenge. I did. It was great fun to say the least.

As the weather heated up the slopes became a little slow and off-piste solar aspects were moving freely and regularly, so staying on-piste proved the better part of valour. Any that chose to start at the other end of the resort were able to ski some massive fresh lines on the backside of the Bellevarde early, but if they ventured toward Le Fornet after lunch it was all over. The hike-to terrain on Bellevarde is something I will do on my next visit….

One thing that helps experience the whole resort is to stay in the main village. Walking the many streets and snow-choked lanes one notices that high-end restaurants & bars are just as numerous as more approachable ones (think the Alex Bar, indoor or more comfortably outdoors at Chez Jules, plus the tiny Pizz & Love with its superb beer selection). If you have money, seek out any of the resort’s many top eateries. There are no boundaries here. If on a budget, there are supermarkets at either end of the village, several great pizza places, numerous excellent patisseries & boulangeries, plus a few friendly eateries that won’t hurt your wallet. We are in France after all, not Switzerland.

For lively after-dark après ski, wander across the piste under the Solaise gondola and squeeze into Cocorico. This place pumps out all the classics in a stand-on-table, shoulder to shoulder, sweat-fest venue. Glorious.

Accommodation wise, if one has money to burn, there are some outrageously expensive hotels & chalets in Val d’Isere. Depending on the time of year, many of them have 3, 4, 5 or more minimum night’s stay. Any hotel that hangs chandelier-like lights on the outside of the building is generally not one I would stay in, and there are several like that in the central village. But each to their own. I found a lovely room last minute in the Victoria Lodge Hotel on the edge of the village, 5 to 10min walk to the centre. Slept blissfully after a fun few nights on the town.

If seeking peace & solitude stay in Le Fornet (if there is availability). If seeking affordability stay in on the edge of the main village in a place like the simple Village Vacances de Val d'Isere, or an apartment in La Daille and eat in, using the local food market there for supplies. Or perhaps daytrip & stay overnight away from the valley all together, but that in a way defeats the purpose of a visit.

Overall, Val d’Isere is a snow-lovers playground of the highest order. It has retained some of its authenticity, only truly selling its soul in the La Daille sector that is lined with freaky apartment buildings, almost as a nod to the heyday of French Alps ski resort architectural atrocities in other ski resorts (like Tignes Val Claret). That aside, the snow quality here is superb, the freeride terrain mind-blowing, and the lifts are better than average, without being awesome due to a few clunky old lifts (Vallons gondola comes straight to mind). On-piste, major runs can be skied-off and nasty after lunch, but many remain pristine throughout the day if one knows where to go & when. All abilities are catered for, but many of the blue runs (beginner) may pose challenges to relative newcomers. The sidecountry is vast and easy to get to via the upper lifts. Crowds are there, but are tolerable, particularly if skiing off piste. For all that is on offer, the lift pass price is magnifique, and even better when Tignes is added into the equation. The village is entertaining, but still knows when to go to bed and rest. You can go as highfalutin or low brow as you wish. What’s not to love?

My skiing proclivities general extend to spending as much time as possible in smaller ski areas that attract little attention but gets lots of snow. However, occasionally one must ‘go large’ to be reminded why resorts like Val d’Isere have such massive (and deserved), world-class reputations. I enjoyed my stay here so much that I intend coming back for an extended visit during a decent, cold, winter storm in 2024. Now that’ll be exciting.

See our video here

I have skied in Val d'Isere for probably 20-25 years and have remained very loyal to this amazing place.
As a frequent visitor one thing to note about Val d'Isere is that it's always been at the forefront of ski lifts innovation. Every season a new chair or gondola is created to make sure you feel this place is not crowded even in peak season.
Val d'Isere is a safe bet, it's not cheap but you will always have a good time no matter the snow conditions. Hands down one of the biggest, most entertaining terrain you can find in the French Alps, perhaps the World.
I was last there in the first week of April 2019, we were lucky to get some fresh spring pow on our first day and went straight to the Pisaillas Glacier to shred it for the whole day. And for the rest of the week we just had the whole Val d'Isere and Tignes' large pistes and super well-groomed snow to ride... never gets old.
See our video here

We ski all over the world but there is very little that can prepare one for the vastness of the terrain at Val d'Isere, let alone in combination with Tignes. Having only barely scratched the surface of the freeride powder possibilities here, I am salivating at the prospect of returning.

The downside is the sheer volume of humanity. The piste trails become skied off rapidly and pushy lift lines are par for the course. In many high traffic areas, beginner and intermediate piste trails are black runs towards lunchtime.

If big, busy but fun ski resorts are your style, Val d'Isere is for you. The village is vibrant, even if on the expensive side. Those on a budget can get a huge feed at the village bakery on the cheap, but everyone should lash out, relax & get a drink on the loungers that front the ski area.

If off-piste, challenging freeride terrain is your style, visiting Val d'Isere for at least a few days in powder is a bucket list item.

If neither of the above appeal, go elsewhere. Sainte Foy for instance.....
See our video here

We skied Val-d'Isere on a blue bird sunny day along with Tignes. Anyone who has skied here knows that you cannot ski Val-d'Isere and Tignes in one day!
Val-d'Isere was suffering from its well publicised malady of way too many humans.
Most of those humans were on the Face run into the main village so not much fun for powder hounds.
Had a cracking lunch in the bakery though...
Do yourself a favour. Ski Val-d'Isere when nobody is there or even better still go to Italy........
See our video here

A stunningly beautiful area with the associated prices. As luck would have it scrotum shrinking blue ice greeted my not so sharp edges but would definitely return if the wallet and the weather gods allow.
See our video here

Having skied at over 100 places around the world over nearly 35 years and probably spent over a year on the snow at Vale d'isere I think that I am fairly well qualified to comment. I don't go for the food or nightlife and I simply can't think of a better place to ski.

The off piste is vast and justifiably rated by many as the best in the world. There are seemingly endless bowls, chutes and open snow fields. The piste skiing is huge and nicely varied. No chance of getting bored here.

Perhaps the snow isn't quite as dry as it is in Colorado but it's nearly as good and a lot better than Whistler. Val d'isere usually gets plenty of snow. Some of my best powder days have been had here on some pretty spectacular terrain.

All in all I think that you have seriously under rated this area especially when it connects seamlessly with Tinges. I nearly forgot to mention the lifts. Easily the best of anywhere I have been.
See our video here

With Tignes it's simply one of the biggest and arguably the best ski area in the world. Whoever suggested it rates only 3 paws for off piste obviously doesn't know the area very well and probably hasn't been to many places. Next time get a guide and you'll see why the area is often rated as the best in the world. I first went there 30 years ago and earlier this year had the best skiing I have had in 20 years.
See our video here

Val is definitely the pretty sister to nearby Tignes, with a more classic French Alps ski feel. There's plenty of skiing and boarding options and the hands free "L'Espace Killy" ticket allows you to access soooooo much terrain (including in Switzerland). So the more time spent at Val the better!!
See our video here