Visited the good ship Val Gardena in mid-March 2019 after a quick detour to the beautiful Lago di Braies on the way down from Austria. Stayed in the lovely town of Ortisei (a.ka. Sankt Ulrich) in a prime hillside location just near the Seceda gondola & overlooking the valley towards the unmistakable spire of the 3181m Sassolungo (Langkofel). The Dolomites are without doubt an Instagramers heaven & Val Gardena – Groeden is no exception. Whatever else the trip might have achieved, it definitely reinforced Val Gardena’s strengths (Instagramability being one of them) …….. & weaknesses.

Val Gardena’s strengths are its location (which is gobsmacking), its mountain huts (which are everywhere & generally sensational), its lift system (which somehow reasonably connects an extremely complex area of terrain), its super-long beginner & intermediate groomed runs (of which there are nearly 150km worth) & of course the price & quality of their Aperol Spritzers (which are beyond yum).

For Groomerhounds, the long runs are divine from Passo Sella down into Selva, from the Comici into Monte Pana, anything off the Ciampinoi, either direction off Seceda into Santa Cristina or Ortisei, Dantercepies into Selva ……. the list goes on. It is avertible magical mystery tour on skis, hence the birth of the ski safari. And whilst a few piste trails get fairly hectic by the end of the day (hectic = out of control people, bumps, ice), there are still so many quiet corners that get very little traffic. We loved skiing the Alpha, Bravo & Charlie runs on Mont de Sëura above Monte Pana. This area is like a forgotten realm. Very few people ski it comparative to the rest of the valley. Even better is that freeride tree skiing is on for those that know the lay of the land.

Let’s face it though, groomed runs are what Val Gardena is all about. Which brings me to the weaknesses. Being the most popular ski resort in Italy certainly shows. Even in low season the morning line for the cable car from Furnes up to Seceda is heinous. We dislike cable cars for a reason! Selva-Wolkenstein is also constantly overrun with humans, buses & cars on its narrow main street. Getting accommodation in the main villages can hence often be difficult. It is so much quieter in the many mountain huts or in locations like Plan de Gralba, Santa Cristina or Passo Gardena.

But Val Gardena’s true weakness from a Powderhounds point of view, is its lack of reliable winter snowfall & limited fall line freeride terrain. The region has the world’s best snowmaking system for a reason. In a lean year just about all piste trail are still open – truly amazing. Luckily our last two visits have had enough natural snow. Regarding freeride, it is often said that the best off-piste powder skiing in Val Gardena is elsewhere……. on Marmolada or neighbouring Val di Fassa! Having said that, it did snow the day before arrival and we did find some fun fresh lines on the Ciampinoi, Seceda & Mont de Sëura. Whilst it wasn’t blower face shots, we shouldn’t complain.

The world’s cutest après ski goat owns the Snowbar's roof-space at the end of the tear-inducing Saslong run in Santa Cristina. Which reminds me of another of Val Gardena’s strengths - après ski, bars & restaurants. We were suitably impressed with Ortisei’s diversity & vibrance in all three spheres of post ski entertainment. A near perfect ski town.

Val Gardena, & indeed the entire Dolomites, is one of those ski locations that if you have never been, you have never truly skied. Snowboarders are excused, it is not a location for you. Everyone else should visit. The spritzers are just that good………

PS. We recommend combining a week in the Dolomites with a week in neighbouring Austria via Innsbruck. Between the two, just about every awesome ski box will be ticked.
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Skied the Sella Ronda through Val Gardena in February. Have also been there in summer climbing the many local via ferrata. Love it!

The skiing is all on piste, but they are perfect, like the lifts. The surrounding Dolomites peaks of Sassolungo and the Sella massif are so impressive. Favorite area is around the sunny Passo Gardena and the long fast trails under the Dantercepies gondola.

Weather was mixed during our visit- cloud, snow, fog patches of sun, but getting around wasn't too difficult, but here are some very confusing trail intersections between Selva and Passo Sella, so keep an eye out on the signage.

Selva has heaps of great ski in accommodation. My favorite is the Hotel Bel Vert.

The place gets quite busy on occasions, particularly on the Sella Ronda.

Goes without saying that the apres and mountain rifugios are fantastic.
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More Guten Morgen than Buongiorno More schnitzel than spaghetti Val Gardena in the Dolomite Super ski area of ITALY is must ski experience.

We were there in late February 2018 (a bumper year for the Dolomites)and saw it in all its glory.The groomed runs are long and fast. The mega snow making ensures skiing will last the whole season long even in a not so good year.It hadn't snowed for a week when we arrived but if you were prepared to hike there was still easily accessible low angle low risk powder to ride.

The scenery is just ridiculous every corner you turn every direction you look the view is stupendously awesome.

Auf Wiedersehen or is that Ciao.
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Val Gardena represents the quintessential Dolomites ski experience. A ski tour on lifts in beautiful surrounds, with wonderful places to eat and drink dotted around the resort.

The piste skiing below Sassolungo is sublime, perfect for intermediates and with endless possibilities. Below the Comici is a ‘fun slope’ that is extraordinary – particularly in a lean natural snow year. Best snow quality and fastest runs with a decent vertical descent of 6-700 metres are the north facing slopes of Dantercepies and the Ciampinoi.

The broad plateau of Alpe di Siusi is physically separated from the main Val Gardena ski area and is in itself a complete ski resort providing excellent, but short, beginner intermediate terrain above 2000m elevation.

The place to stay is Selva (or Wolkenstein depending on your language preference!). There is some wonderful ski in/ski out accommodation with direct access to the Sella Ronda and nearby resorts of Alta Badia and Val di Fassa. Try Hotel Bel Vert.

For après, you can’t go past Piz Seteur, although there are plenty of excellent alternatives. Beware of the tricky ski down after a few grogs!

The drinking and eating ski tour of Val Gardena is classic Dolomites.  Hope you enjoy it as much as we did.
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