Zermatt Skiing & Snowboarding
Zermatt ski resort is world renowned for very good reason. Skiing here will see you in a resort with lifts & terrain second to nowhere else on the globe.
Aside from the jaw dropping, eye catching scenery, the three main features of Zermatt skiing and snowboarding are the sheer magnitude of the ski slopes, the diversity of the lifts & the massive skiable vertical from some of the highest piste trails in Europe.
Zermatt ski resort includes 210km of marked piste trails over 2,200m of skiable vertical, multiple marked ski routes, huge amounts of off-piste terrain and 34 modern lifts which include every type of uphill conveyance from trains, funiculars, cable cars, gondolas, chairlifts and multiple surface tows on the ever-moving glaciers. Combined with sensational Cervinia, the statistics nearly double.
Zermatt skiing is across three main zones. The Schwarzsee-Matterhorn Glacier Paradise (Klein Matterhorn) area is the largest of the zones and includes a massive vertical drop of over 2,279m back to town. Access is via the Furi lifts at the southern end of the village. This area has largely north-aspect, snow-sure slopes situated on glaciers. Snowboarders wanting to avoid the area's many surface tows can do so by doing long, long laps. The new gondola from Trockener Steg improves turnaround times but can be hectic when the mid-morning crowd arrives. Our favourite sector here is in and around the Hirli chairlift. Lots of diversity and a little quieter.
The Sunnegga-Rothorn zone has terrain for all ability levels, including some tree skiing. Overlooking the receding Findel Glacier, the area has some of the best mountain restaurants in Zermatt. Try out the deck at Chez Vrony for the best food or coffee at the Blue Lounge for the best views of the Matterhorn. Excellent après ski awaits down the piste #2 valley trail, culminating with an elevator descent back down to village level. Access is via the Sunnegga funicular on the eastern side of the village (we generally dislike funiculars, but thankfully this one tends only to be required once on a day unless the weather is bad.)
For Powderhounds, the Stockhorn-Rote Nase-Hohtälli-Gornergrat zone is a standout with high elevation (3,532m), diverse terrain including intermediate cruising on one side and big vertical freeriding terrain on the other. Freeride terrain is accessed via the Hohtälli or Rote Nase cable cars. Interestingly, this zone also has the best beginner progression terrain between Gornergrat & Riffelberg. Have fun skiing alongside the train as it descends! Best access to the zone is via the Gornergrat train located opposite the main train station in town.
Zermatt Skiing Highlights
The Zermatt skiing highlights are a rite of passage according to Powderhounds. They are only to be undertaken when there is no powder because skiing powder ALWAYS takes priority. Tick off the following when sliding around Zermatt.
- For the ultimate early morning leg warmer, catch the first cable car up to Rothorn in mid-winter & watch the sun touch the Matterhorn before plunging into the shady, quiet trails all the way back down to Zermatt via Patrullarve and the final ski elevator.
- With a few novice skiers, race the Gornergrat train down from the Kulm Gornergrat Hotel to Riffelberg. Try to not stare at the Matterhorn on the way down. An impossible challenge - the staring at the Matterhorn that is, not beating the train (that’s easy).
- See the world’s most ridiculous elevator shaft by taking the Rote Nase cable car across from Hohtälli. Ski the fantastic freeride routes back to the valley.
- Go to the highest lifted point in the ski resort at the 3,899m, Gobba di Rollin, and ski absolute top to bottom from the Klein Matterhorn via the glaciers, Furgg & Furi all the way into Zermatt - around 2,279m vert & more kilometres than you want to know (it’s about 16km)! If for some reason the tow isn’t running (as often happens), walk up the last bit, its not far off the main piste.
- Head to Cervinia for the day & go all the way down to Valtournenche - a ski distance of around 22km. On the way back have lunch in a rifugio & realise how much you are getting over-charged for food in Switzerland!
- Challenge yourself to ski the entire resort in a day (only for advanced riders due to a few steep pitches). Start on the Sunnegga funicular. Head up to Rothorn, then across to Hohtälli & the Rote Nase. Down to Eja & the take the chairlift up to Breitboden. Traverse to Riffelalp & take the train up to Gornergrat. Ski all the way to Furi via Riffelberg, then ride up to Klein Matterhorn via Trockener Steg. Ski down to Furgg, & then take the gondola up to Schwarzsee. Ski to Stafel for the final chair ride up to Hirli. Point it for the last 1,150m vert descent into Zermatt - you choose the route! Phew.
- For true Powderhounds, try to ski all the marked off-piste routes in the resort. The diversity is immense. The best are below Rothorn, Schwarzsee & Rote Nase/Hohtälli. Mind your ski bases on the lower elevation ones like routes #43 & 49.
- Get a guide and using the lifts to get high, ski-tour beyond the ski runs amongst the high peaks and glaciers above Zermatt, or even go to Saas Fee for the day via the backcountry.
- At the end of a ski day, do the ultimate Zermatt après ski challenge. Starting at Riffelberg, stop at all the bars down to Zermatt for at least one drink. By our count, there should be a minimum of 9 stops. Good luck!
Ski Lifts
Unlike many ski resorts across the world that rest on their laurels once a lift system is in place, Zermatt has steadily modernised and replaced every one of it 'non-surface' lifts in the last 15 years. New high-capacity gondolas replacing the cable car from Trockener Steg up to Klein Matterhorn, and a new gondola up to the Rothorn are more recent changes. A brand-new cable car linking the top of Italy's Cervinia (Testa Grigia) to the Swiss Klein Matterhorn started in season 23/24. Other improvements are ongoing, including replacing old chairlifts and a cunning plan to link the Rote Nase to the Stockhorn by cable car, opening a huge area of freeride terrain.
Despite the general modernity of the lifts, the huge numbers of patrons can overwhelm the system on sunny powder days. Be prepared to wait at some locations during high season, the worst of which is Trockener Steg to head up to Klein Matterhorn. Go there early.
Snowboarders should note that the glaciers are largely served by surface tows. If you don't like getting dragged, take note of the trail map for alternatives. It is possible to avoid most of the surface lifts on the glaciers simply by doing long laps on the new gondola from Trockener Steg up to the top.
Weather has a major influence on the day-to-day lift operations at Zermatt. At higher elevations strong winds can become quite frustrating. During most of the Powderhounds visits to the region, the upper glacier lifts & links between Zermatt & Cervinia have been closed for several days in a row due to high winds. The winds can be quite localised, so anyone visiting Cervinia for the day should take careful note of the day's weather & wind forecast to avoid the expensive problem of being stuck in the wrong country at the end of the day! Luckily, there is more than enough other terrain at Zermatt that if the upper glacier lifts are not running, it doesn't really matter (or is that Zer-matter?).
Ski Trail Maps
Zermatt Ski Trail Map
To the uninitiated, the Zermatt ski trail map is totally inadequate for the size and complexity of the terrain. Distances and terrain variation are far greater than one might expect. Read signage carefully and on days of poor visibility, stick to the main trails. Check out the ski trail map for Zermatt below.
Interconnected with Cervinia-Valtournenche
Zermatt skiing is big, but the terrain becomes gargantuan for a few extra francs or euro to get the interlinked lift pass with Cervinia-Valtournenche in Italy. Called the Matterhorn Ski Paradise, the combined ski area offers up 360km of piste & access to some superb Italian hospitality in a quieter ski area. One would be remiss in skiing Zermatt without at least heading to one of Cervinia’s rifugi for lunch! It is totally inadequate for the immense size of the ski area, so as per above, pay careful attention to the signage and leave some time to get home!
Check out the ski trail map for Zermatt-Cervinia-Valtournenche below.
Lift Passes
For all the grandeur and infrastructure at Zermatt one does pay premium prices. A 'Ski Pass Zermatt' (valid in Zermatt only) is amongst Europe's most expensive (actually, it IS the most expensive!). And the 'International' lift pass (incl. Cervinia) is more expensive again. However, everything is relative. A standard Zermatt lift ticket is still only half what one might pay at a ticket window in Vail USA. Skiing the best resorts in Europe is cheap........... relatively! Prices increase depending on time of the season.
Things to know about the 'Ski Pass Zermatt' are: they do not include Cervinia, children under 9 years of age ski for free, children up 16yr ski for free on Saturdays, they are valid for the winter season from 1 Nov to start of May.
Zermatt skiing by itself is big, but the terrain becomes gargantuan for a few extra francs or euro with the ‘International’ lift pass with Cervinia-Valtournenche in Italy. The combined ski area is often referred to as the Matterhorn Ski Paradise & offers up 360km of piste plus access to some superb Italian hospitality in a quieter ski area. Only buy the international pass if planning on heading to Cervinia for the day. Leave Zermatt early in the morning to make the most of it. An International pass can be added to an already purchased Zermatt lift pass at the cost of a variation fee.
A recent change to lift passes is the addition of the Ikon Pass being valid in Zermatt from 1 Nov to 30 April. Holders of an Ikon Pass can ski for free for 7-days, with no blackout period. Holders of Ikon Base Plus Pass and Ikon Base Pass can ski for free for 5-days with no blackout periods. The ski days are valid only for the winter season. We are unsure whether the days need to be consecutive. Cervinia-Valtournenche is NOT included! To redeem lift passes, you will need to go to a local ticket window and show your Ikon Pass, Ikon Base Pass or Ikon Session Pass.
In summer, lift pass prices increase for certain day passes, probably due to the minimal numbers of skiers on the slopes most days. If nothing else, it is a unique experience and one that may not last that much longer if the glacier melting continues on its current trajectory.
On-Piste terrain
With so many kilometres of groomed ski trails, rest assured you will find something to enjoy on the piste. Just go explore....
Novices & Beginners
The best learn-to-ski areas in Zermatt are in ........... Cervinia! It is cheaper, sunnier, quieter & just more pleasant to learn to ski on Cervinia or Valtournenche nursery slopes than in Zermatt!
Having said that there are two excellent learn to ski locations in Zermatt. One is just below Sunnegga (accessible via the Sunnegga funicular & then a small purpose-built gondola elevator). It is the more sheltered of the two areas. The second is at Riffelberg along the Gornergrat railway. The extensive beginner piste trails nearby, the passing trains & the ever-present Matterhorn overlooking the area make it a sensational place to learn to ski………. if the weather is nice. Therein lies the rub. There is nowhere for rank beginners other than high elevation areas. No beginner friendly valley trails exist & most of the blue piste trails are in highly exposed areas on Gornergrat or the glaciers. Beginners will need to download on a lift to return to the village. A damn shame!
Intermediates
The Zermatt ski resort on-piste is incredibly well geared towards intermediates. In fact, it could be said that all the piste trails are for intermediates. The supposed black runs are rather tame & with only a couple of exceptions are easily completed by even lower intermediates. Much of the ski and snowboard terrain is above 2,000m elevation, so the snow quality is generally superb to go with the long cruisy runs. We reckon the best intermediate piste combination is from Riffelberg to Furi via pistes #39,41 & 42.
Advanced
Whilst ripping down the groomers at warp factor 10 can be hugely fun at Zermatt, it is in the off-piste where the main fun focus is for advanced and expert riders. However, for advanced snow-sliders, skiing the many full top to bottom groomers without a break can be seriously challenging as well. Try the Rothorn into Zermatt (1,483m vert), Gornergrat into Furi (1,222) and Hirli into Furi (902m). Like many other European ski resorts, you’ll get the most out of the off-piste terrain if you go with a guide & start early.
Off-Piste for the Powderhound & Freeriders
Zermatt has some iconic powder skiing & freeride terrain. Our picks are the backside of Rothorn, the trees into Patrullarve from Blauherd, the area below the Rote Nase & Hohtälli. One of the sneakier powder riding areas is hiding in plain sight, tucked below the Matterhorn. The Hirli chairlift has some very peachy sliding with very few others sharing it.
For glacier skiing, there are possibilites right from the top, but crevasses are an issue for the uninitiated. In good visibility, a good zone to start is on the Furgg Glacier traversing wide & high across from the top of the Furgg chair at Furggsatttel, eventually joining up with a groomed piste (#69 or 55) to get back.
The steepest advanced piste is number 25 between Grünsee & Eja. As for experts-only terrain on a powder day, you’ll just have to search…….. or listen for my whooping & yipping!
Zermatt Backcountry
The Zermatt backcountry terrain includes numerous glaciers & the slopes of the Monte Rosa massif. Epic long descents are possible including some classics from Saas Fee that come back into Zermatt. Much of it is most safely skied from late March into early May. If new to the area, we suggest getting a mountain guide if at all unsure about route finding.
Avalanche and crevasse danger often impact the ski resort & surrounding mountains. Recent heavy snow seasons saw extreme (category 5) avalanche conditions at times. Skiers & splitboarders need to be aware of the usual avalanche & crevasse hazards in the backcountry & off-piste. A closed zone above Schweigmatten between Furi & Riffelberg is particularly dangerous and one that has claimed several lives. Be smart out there.
Summer Skiing
Zermatt is one of only two ski resorts in the world with skiing every day. Around 26.5km (ish) of intermediate slopes are available on the glaciers during the 'summer' season when combined with Cervinia. Ironically, lift tickets for this limited terrain often cost more than in winter! For the first time in memory, the ski lifts did close over late summer in 2023 because of excessive melting of the glaciers due to high temperatures and no fresh snow over summer. We hope it won’t be repeated, but the climate is changing rapidly. Ski it while you can!